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Bitty Buttress
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Welcome Home S 

The Buzz 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Tarrant, 1998?
Page Views: 3,359
Submitted By: richard magill on Nov 17, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Photo by Ted Lanzano

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  • Description 

    This is a little-known but absolutely killer line on Bitty Buttress. Hike up to Bitty Buttress and continue past the fallen tree for a couple hundred yards until the trail curves around to meet the southeast corner of the buttress. You will be in an awesome alcove that gets lots of morning sun, and is nice and wind-protected. It is bordered on two sides by overhanging rock.

    There are three lines in this alcove. On the giant overhanging wave to the right is the The Lorax (13b). It is hard to understand why there aren't more routes here - there is plenty of room for more - multipitch as well. Moving left to the planar wall, there is an unfinished (14?) project. On the farthest left is the Buzz.

    At first glance, the Buzz appears vertical, but when you get on it you will find the route overhangs by about 10 degrees. The climbing starts off reasonably easy, and then gets consistently harder as you go up an overhanging seam (12a) to the crux. You hit the crux about 35 feet up, where you get a clip before launching into a bizarre sequence. From here it is about 8-10 feet of thin, tenuous, and inobvious 12d crux maneuvering to make it to a jug and another clip. You can chill out a little on a rounded arete before continuing, but there is a bit more 11d/12a climbing guarding the anchors. Great line!


    8 bolts.

    Photos of The Buzz Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the crux on the Buzz.  Photo taken by ...
    Approaching the crux on the Buzz. Photo taken by ...

    Comments on The Buzz Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 27, 2002

    Is this an easier or harder send compared to Vasodilator -- has anyone redpointed both? Which is the better 13a project to work?
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 27, 2002

    In my opinion, Vasodilator is the best .13a pitch in Boulder Canyon, although I have not climbed every .13a there...
    By richard magill
    Sep 27, 2002

    I have sent The Buzz, but I haven't put away Vasodilator yet. In my opinion, Vasodilator is a bit more difficult, because it is relentlessly hard from top to bottom. The crux of The Buzz may be a tad harder than any of the moves on Vasodilator (although the egg-like rounded arete at the end of Vaso is pretty sick), but the climbing on either side of the crux is only 12a. So you only have to do hard moves for about 8 feet. Vasodilator is super continuous and pumpy - more hard climbing for sure.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 23, 2005

    Beautiful climb. 12c at Rifle.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 24, 2005

    Hmmm, 12c especially if you bail before the crux even starts -- you may want to redpoint first, and remove your bail biner -- would make for a move credible statement...
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 26, 2005

    Sorry, AC from, but I sent the Buzz 2nd try on Thursday 9/22, and scored a crappy bail biner in the process. Post back when you're ready to not make a fool of yourself.

    Since you are curious about the grade, this route is easier than both Hang 'em High and I'm Not a Philistine, both Rifle 12c, and about the same overall difficulty as Movement of Fear. Go get on In Your Face or Beer Run to see what real 12+ and 13- routes feel like. Sound credible enough?
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 11, 2012

    I'd like to consider myself a solid 5.13 climber having put down five different 5.13s within a five week period just before getting on this route. I got shut down hard at the crux of this route. I was also not impressed by the quality of the route. The moves were awkward, holds were sharp, and some of the feet were a slippery type granite. Some of the holds were moist from a recent rain, I will have to go back and revisit it in drier and colder conditions. Either way, Lorax and Rise and Shine deserve a lot more attention than this route in my opinion. On the other hand, the wall that the Buzz is on is very inspiring and impressive looking down on it from high up in the gully. Very striking and photogenic for sure....
    By Jack Sparrow
    From: denver, co
    Oct 15, 2013

    I love how all strong climbers compare everything to Rifle, which is kinda bs because Rifle is known for being funky, sandbagged, hard to read sequences and being just plain weird. Remember you're climbing in Boulder Canyon, home of soft, straightforward climbing. It seems stupid to compare the two. Maybe we should compare all of BC to The Gunks, in that case this route is only 5.10.

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