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The Buttocks 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 1969 Kim Schmitz and Don Peterson
Page Views: 850
Submitted By: Ed Hartouni on Jul 5, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


A crystally right facing corner is climbed to the chimney. The move into the chimney is the crux. No protection once in the chimney until you get up to the chokestones at the top.


Up and right from Doggie Deviations


Standard Yosemite Valley rack.

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By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Dec 18, 2011

The chimney tunnel-through is cool. The start is kind of nasty with pro in exfoliating rock. Bring a big cam to protect the begining, followed by some pieces in the 1-3" range to get you into the chimney.

Worth doing once.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Feb 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Chimney has bomber pro all the way up if you go deep enough inside. There is a flake in there that takes small pro, but it is so tight & secure that you'll wonder why you're placing it. Bring a headlamp if you want to see the way up with the least dirt & grime.

There is free booty in the lodged debris, but you'll probably want to skip that like I did and just get back out into daylight.

A #2 BD C4 cam or a solid hand jam protects the crux if you slip on the exfoliating granite.

This route is somewhat entertaining but you'll only do it once.

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