The Butterfly Effect
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This is a great new route on beautiful rock!
Long reaches between pockets (11ish) brings you to a ledge after three bolts. Rest up here; you'll need your juice.
Climb the techy face above the ledge up through the first crux, a long reach off an undercling with some intermediates. "Rest" on jugs and in a shallow dihedral. Strut your yoga stuff, lift your leg high, and fire the 2nd crux to the top!
This route is an awesome new addition. The rock is so fresh and so clean clean, so get it while the getting is good.
Left of Peleliu
, which is the route left of Left El Sapper
, look for three bolts leading to a ledge, followed by a face to a hanging dihedral high above.
By Peter J. Beyel
From: Glenwood Springs
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Really love this line. Nice addition.
Jul 5, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Yeah, the rock quality and movement is solid all the way to the anchors!