REI Community
The Butterface Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ButterFace, The T 
Butterknife T 

The ButterFace 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a A1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a A1 [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06'
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Jun 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Batman the fixed green rope to avoid an accident o...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


P1. Climb obvious finger to hand crack off the ledge on the right, move up at the terminus of the crack clipping a few bolts. A WILD traverse right-ward with your heels hanging over the edge/arete get the blood pumping then you reach the crux. Push hard, grab a jug and follow the sweet arete to a nice ledge with 2 bolt belay. 5.11+

P2. A mix of aid and free through a rotten crack that leaves the ledge on the left. Pass a two bolts until free climbing becomes easy, wander right ward up some ramps to a 2 bolt belay. Dirty, rotten 5.8 A1 (not recommended)


#0 -#4 Metoilus, 1,2,3(optional) Camalots, Qd's.
Rap from 1st pitch anchor, 2nd pitch not recommended.

Comments on The ButterFace Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Jun 30, 2007

This is why you hike up that cool gully. Super fun, insecure climbing. Its funny that a climb protected this well can leave you shaking a little.
By Shadow Ayala
From: Lexington, Kentucky
Jun 6, 2017

Not the best rock and certainly not the worst. I absolutely loved this climb. My wife hated it. She wasn't a fan of the rock quality. This thing is airy, exposed, and technical. IMO, the chossy bits just add more to the experience. If there was a little less kitty litter, this would see way more traffic.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About