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The Butterface Buttress
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ButterFace, The T 
Butterknife T 

The ButterFace 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a A1 [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06'
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Jun 30, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Batman the fixed green rope to avoid an accident o...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1. Climb obvious finger to hand crack off the ledge on the right, move up at the terminus of the crack clipping a few bolts. A WILD traverse right-ward with your heels hanging over the edge/arete get the blood pumping then you reach the crux. Push hard, grab a jug and follow the sweet arete to a nice ledge with 2 bolt belay. 5.11+

P2. A mix of aid and free through a rotten crack that leaves the ledge on the left. Pass a two bolts until free climbing becomes easy, wander right ward up some ramps to a 2 bolt belay. Dirty, rotten 5.8 A1 (not recommended)

Protection 

#0 -#4 Metoilus, 1,2,3(optional) Camalots, Qd's.
Rap from 1st pitch anchor, 2nd pitch not recommended.


Comments on The ButterFace Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Jun 30, 2007

This is why you hike up that cool gully. Super fun, insecure climbing. Its funny that a climb protected this well can leave you shaking a little.
By Shadow Ayala
From: Lexington, Kentucky
Jun 6, 2017

Not the best rock and certainly not the worst. I absolutely loved this climb. My wife hated it. She wasn't a fan of the rock quality. This thing is airy, exposed, and technical. IMO, the chossy bits just add more to the experience. If there was a little less kitty litter, this would see way more traffic.

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