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The Great Black North
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The Burnt Toast 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009

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Just below the main difficulties on The Burnt Toas...


This pumpy number offers great pocket climbing on beautiful black stone. The route begins easily and gets steadily more difficult with height, making this line a good warm-up option for the more difficult lines in the area. This route is also located in a recessed alcove, so it gets shade a bit earlier that some of the other routes, making it a good morning option on the hotter days.

Begin atop an impressive mound of rodent feces at the base of a white, right-leaning corner. Follow the weakness up and left, then back right, to get established in the shallow open-book just left of the arete. Follow this corner on good holds, eventually moving right onto a white patch of rock with small bits of vegetation. Rest up here before embarking on the crux section. Punch straight up on cool black, pocketed limestone to a difficult, foot-intensive crux just below the anchor.


Located a few hundred feet right of the Dreamer Pit, just left of right-facing, right-leaning dihedral.


Bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

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