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The Burnt Penis
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Burnt Penis, The S 

The Burnt Penis 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,259
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Atop the Burnt Penis, Nov 20, 2014.

Description 

A weird start, followed by easy climbing.

Protection 

Draws.


Photos of The Burnt Penis Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapelling off The Burnt Penis. Sunset.
Rapelling off The Burnt Penis. Sunset.
Rock Climbing Photo: Phil on The Burnt Penis
Phil on The Burnt Penis
Rock Climbing Photo: The Burnt Penis TR
The Burnt Penis TR
Rock Climbing Photo: The Burnt Penis TR
The Burnt Penis TR
Rock Climbing Photo: On his way up the penis
BETA PHOTO: On his way up the penis
Rock Climbing Photo: Celebrating on the summit of the "Burnt Penis...
Celebrating on the summit of the "Burnt Penis...
Rock Climbing Photo: "The Burnt Penis". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "The Burnt Penis". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: "The Burnt Penis" route climbs the right...
"The Burnt Penis" route climbs the right...

Comments on The Burnt Penis Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan Burnham
From: La Crescenta, CA
Nov 8, 2010

The 3rd bolt is missing on this route. I led it and the bolt was sticking 1/2 way out and when my buddy cleaned it, he gave it a little pull with his fingers and it fell out. I put some yellow tape on the first bolt to warn others.
By Mtnfly
From: El Segundo, Ca
Apr 12, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

First bolt is very loose. Didn't notice any missing bolts. The is a big flake that will come off when someone pulls out on it, pulling down seems ok.
By JC w KC redux
May 28, 2013

4 bolts.
Finding the LOLR at the start will challenge your route finding abilities. The 4th bolt is hard to see from the ground.
No mussy hooks.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
May 26, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X

There are four bolts on the route. The 1st protects the opening moves getting established above the overhang at the base. The 2nd, just below the roof. The run out above the roof to the 3rd bolt is not difficult, but a fall before clipping the 3rd bolt has groungfall potential.
By Floyd Hayes
Apr 3, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Easiest start is on the right side of the arete.
By Stacey K
May 22, 2017

Warning! The top left anchor bolt is about to fall out! It wiggled a great deal while I pulled the rope through to rappel and I'm suprised it didn't pull out! I wouldn't climb this until it if tightened! Other than that, it's a really fun route. The start is to the right of the first bolt, then round the corner to your left and go straight up and over the bulge.

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