REI Community
South Peak - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
A Better Way T 
Agony T 
Agony Til Dawn T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Bite, The T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
By Pass T 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 
Conn's West T 
Conn's West Corner Start T 
Conn's West Direct  T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Heartburn T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Kosher Critter T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
NOVA T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Burn 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Burns & Pleiss - 1974
Page Views: 6,005
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2007  with updates from Brian Malone

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (122)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Admiring his gear placements after the crux of Th...

Description 

The Burn is the first route one comes to after hiking around the corner from the Southern End on one's way up the Stairmaster. Start on a block with a small tree.

P1: Climb up the face via cracks and through the overhang above to the Ecstasy Junior belay ledge. Most people stop here but there is a second pitch.

P2: Climb up the face to the right of a corner.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of The Burn Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: my dad (ernie)feeling "the burn"
my dad (ernie)feeling "the burn"
Rock Climbing Photo: start of Burn
BETA PHOTO: start of Burn

Comments on The Burn Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 17, 2017
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Feb 9, 2007

The Burns starts at a ~3 foot boulder about 100 ft up the stair master.

One can escape the crux fingercrack of the route by stepping left to a small corner system and a tree (The Burn Escape 5.7). I have never seen or head of anyone doing the second pitch, but it is in the guidebook. I think most people just climb the 2 pitch of EJ (5.4) which is one of the best easy pitches at Seneca.

The Burn can be top ropped from a set a shuts below the ledge (the ones at the ledge are for rapping). It is a bit of a rope stretch for a 60 m rope. You may have to stand on the boulder at the base to belay.
By Jeff Karrels
Apr 30, 2007

The shuts on the top of the Burn are no longer there as of 30 April 2007. Actually when I was there a couple weeks previous to this they had been cut. Similarly the anchors for sunshine are gone as well. If you rap on a single 60m from the rap rings / slung tree, you are going to have to down climb the ramp a bit. 5.easy downclimb though.
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Jun 14, 2007

If you can't tell from the name of the climb, this route is very sustained and has a reputation as an ankle-buster. I watched my friend Andy Welter take a 20 footer and break his ankle on this climb in the late 90s.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The second pitch is character building and worth doing once.
By Frances Fierst
Administrator
Oct 3, 2010

I really enjoyed this route. The climbing was varied and sustained, especially at the top. I was able to did a little bit of everything (lie back, hand jams, and finger locks) etc, just in one pitch. There is a roomy belay ledge to bring up your second. Be careful rapping down if using a 60 m rope!
By Nate R
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fantastic route, my first dose of seneca retard-sandbag-grading (the previous day I did stuff on south pillar that was all dead-on for grades). I give the 1st pitch 10a.

2nd pitch was also quite fun.
By Joe Hunt
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Mark and Nate have it right! When I got to the crux I knew if I slipped (even if my piece held) I would break a leg at best. As I turned the crux my piece fell out. :O Gulp! I consider it a pretty serious route for the 5.8-5.9 leader, unless when you're at the crux you have the perfect gear with you, and you place it perfectly. Great pro above that, though. And, a hell of a fun route.
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 6, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Glad I didn't read the comments here before I got on this one. While I agree that this is on the harder end of 5.8, it is NOT a dangerous route. The move over the small roof is committing, but can be protected well with a blue Alien up high. I placed it, then downclimbed and rested before moving on. The crux comes in the thin cracks above where gear can be placed almost anywhere.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome line with a "business end" that comes up and smacks you. I find this climb to have 3 cruxy sections in the upper cracks, each one having a good rest stance at the end if you can find it. The moves are consistently 5.8. Gear is anywhere you wanna place it. Just good climbing fun!
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Ridgway, CO
May 13, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You can protect the opening moves with a #5 metolius placed in the hollow flake slightly left of the tree. From here you can step up for a smaller cam in the same feature and then step right into the crack proper.
By ajtwoface
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

This a great route, but sustained. I got stung by a wasp right at the massive undercling about halfway up. Its a safe route, and it has a massive ledge at the end of the first pitch that it shares with EJ, sunshine, and Ecstasy.
By P. Sully
May 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

my first route at Seneca, before we owned any cams.

we had to wade the river after the flood of '85 took the old bridge out. this was the crux.
my hands froze solid following Greg up the Burn and then only warmed up in the finger crack. Then they "burned" as the blood flowed back in.
By Evan Anderson
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 22, 2013

Sick route. Best way to get up to the west face. The second pitch is cool too and could benefit from more traffic. Traverse right under the roof and up a corner. You can use the same tree as the top of EJ for a belay anchor.
By adamsc
From: Cincinnati, OH
Mar 26, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not sure if P2 goes up through the roof (it feels like a v4 problem?) but if it does, there is a baseball sized orange hold that is coming loose, you're going to have to find alt beta to get up. If you pull it, it could easily kill someone on the belay ledge. If P2 goes right of the corner, it's absolutely great and more people should do it.
By SICgrips
Apr 18, 2017

Going up the corner is the second pitch of Ecstasy Jr. - 5.4. The second pitch of the Burn goes straight up the crack and up over the roof and it's stout - definitely harder than the first pitch. I'm not a boulderer but I can imagine a V4 rating for the move or two over the roof.
By BrianWS
Apr 18, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

V4 would put the route at 5.12. It is not that hard.
By Spencer Perry
Jun 8, 2017

Based on the Barnes topo and beta from some Seneca developers, the second pitch (as it typically goes) climbs up to the roof then traverses right around the roof onto a ledge and then up a right facing corner (which is not the EJ corner). However, pulling the roof is apparently the direct finish--it would be a serious lead.

By Rohan R Rao
From: Jacksonville, Florida
Jun 26, 2017

I did not have a guidebook and just jumped on this line as Ecstacy was crowded and The Burns looked doable. Definitely a fun line. After about half way through, I traversed left and finished the route with some stout moves on Sunshine (along the piton line) near the ledge. It definitely felt way harder than an .8 and cursed the Seneca sandbag, only to later learn those moves on Sunshine goes around .10a.

If you stick along on the proper route, wide crack to the right of Sunshine, the route feels more like a stout 5.8 - on par with Seneca grades.

Find some protection near the start.

No shuts - Rap off from the rap rings on the pitch one ledge (shared by Ecstacy Jr and Sunshine). Need a 70m for the rap, a 60m won't make it to the ground.
By nlbaumgardner
Sep 17, 2017

Watch out! As of 16 Sep, there is an angry chipmunk defending its nest inside a crack about half way up!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About