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A.C.E. S 
Blood Doll S 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 
Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Politician, The S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
Trash It and Move On T,S 
Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

The Bureau (Pitch 1) 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl & John Baldwin 1999
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: Aeon Aki on Jun 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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...and taking the ride after missing the jug.

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  • Description 

    The Bureau climbs the line of bolts left of Wanker. It is identified by the chain link hanging from the 3rd bolt.

    Climb up the pillar to the first bolt and work your way into a sloping rail. A wild dyno gets you off of the sloper, but the fun doesn't stop as more 5.11 climbing guards the anchors. Lower from the first set of anchors or continue on to harder climbing. More info coming....


    10 draws is plenty.

    Photos of The Bureau (Pitch 1) Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ian hucking for the jug off the awful sloper...
    BETA PHOTO: Ian hucking for the jug off the awful sloper...

    Comments on The Bureau (Pitch 1) Add Comment
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    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Aug 28, 2009

    Great route. Shady until late afternoon, and somewhat protected by rain from a roof above. I don't really dyno at the crux; I do more of a lieback off the terrible right sloper. It's important to lean left for the sloper to be effective. I then let go of the left undercling and statically--but quickly--get the jug rail above. The route is not long but I find it pumpy. This and Wanker P1 are my favorite pitches at Vampire. I'm not sure whence the name derives.
    By Christian Mason
    From: Westminster CO
    Sep 21, 2015
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Stop reading if you don't want beta:

    The bad sloper at the first overlap can be avoided all together. Before pulling the overlap work the feet as far right as possible. Hands on the good undercling.

    Move the left hand up to the high side pull (just right of the bolt) while leaning way right.

    Work the feet up.

    Right hand to slightly slopey crimp (just above and right of the sidepull the left hand is on).

    From here, it's one move up to better holds.

    Cell phone video of crux sequence:

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