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The Bungalow

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Car Jack (variation) T 
Dugout, The S 
Gas Hike S 
Incident Management (variation) S 
Learner's Permit S 
Moped S 
Prybar S 
Road Rage S 
Rumble Strip S 
Two Shovels S 
White Noise S 

The Bungalow Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.71094, -111.78952 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,766
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tea on Oct 12, 2009
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]

The Scoop 

A small addition to the Parley's crags. All routes done May 2008.

Getting There 

Best approached from above with an easy 5 minute walk from the top of
existing Parley's crags. Pass the cell tower building on the south side taking
the obvious hiking trail East. At the first fork go left. Trail sidehills over to,
and ends near a power pole. Continue over to the top of the routes or go down
Rusty's Staircase (5.0) to the base of the routes. Though the routes are short,
the rock is good and the climbing fun and moderate.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Bungalow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bungalow:
Two Shovels   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
The Dugout   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   
Prybar   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 45'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bungalow

Featured Route For The Bungalow
Rock Climbing Photo: The belaying area.

White Noise 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : The Bungalow
Start by the 4 inch corner,move over the flake to jugs ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of The Bungalow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A shot of nearly the entire belay area.  Great tre...
BETA PHOTO: A shot of nearly the entire belay area. Great tre...
Rock Climbing Photo: These are the joint anchors for the routes Road Ra...
BETA PHOTO: These are the joint anchors for the routes Road Ra...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the way down if you want to hike it, calle...
BETA PHOTO: This is the way down if you want to hike it, calle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's the view from on top as you're coming up fr...
BETA PHOTO: Here's the view from on top as you're coming up fr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a view of The Bungalow from a distance.  A...
BETA PHOTO: Here is a view of The Bungalow from a distance. A...

Comments on The Bungalow Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 17, 2017
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 13, 2009
Wasn't this area named the Tiki Wall at some point?
Fun routes, at least one of which deserving more than 1.5 stars...
By Tea
Oct 13, 2009
Misinformation by's been the Bungalow from the get go.
By samg Gileadi
Oct 25, 2009
Fun moderates. Great addition to the area.
By Andrew May
From: Westminster, CO
Oct 31, 2009
We went to the canyon to scout out some climbs today, and I just want to make sure we found the Bungalow Wall. It is the crag furthest East into the canyon right?
I just moved to the area and dont start my new job for 2 months, so my schedule is wide open. Does anyone have time to show me around a little?
By Tim G.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 5, 2011
Nice little crag with a couple moderate routes. Easy to get to. With the trees it's shaded for the belayer almost all day. Everything can be top roped if you are taking out some beginners.
From: Salt Lake City
May 12, 2013
Medium Hike, easy to get to, however you start at the top of the climb so you have to scramble down or rappel down. Lots of easy climbs which are great for beginners and starting lead climbers. Good Shade however around 1 the sun is in your eyes climbing and in your belayers eyes. So get there early. The 5.10 is really a 5.9 with a couple thin tuff moves, the rest of the climb is easy so there isn't much difficulty on this crag, makes for good beginner crag.

Also remember to save enough energy to climb out of the belay area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay area is tight and is a bit dirty with dust a...
Belay area is tight and is a bit dirty with dust and loose dirt.

Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of the rock.  Good fun rock.
Photo of the rock. Good fun rock.
By Amanda.Medes
Jun 26, 2013
Encountered 2 large rattlesnakes at this area today at the top of the routes and almost got bit myself....Dropped my guidebook in a panic on the way to the rappel and I wasn't able to go back and get it due to the snake so if anyone finds a "Guidebook to climbing the Wasatch Range" at the top of Gas Hike (I think) and wants to return it, it would be greatly appreciated.
By Billy Smallen
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 18, 2014
cdec and I put up three new routes on the Bungalow Wall over the last couple of months. They are located on the wall to the right of Rusty's Staircase, and have cleaned up really nicely! Check them out!

Here is the approach info:

• The regular approach follows the approach directions for the Upper Bungalow Wall and then makes use of a fixed rope to descend the gully below Rusty's Staircase. The fixed rope is located towards the highway from the wall at the bottom of the downclimb.

• The lower approach is accessed via the old highway that runs from the base of the Iron Curtain Wall and ends after the Bungalow Wall. Walk up canyon past the Riptide Wall, past some scree piles, until you are almost at the Bungalow Wall. A faint trail heading up and right will take you to the Lower Bungalow Wall. Be wary not to grab loose rock as you reach the wall, the rock is actively exfoliating.
By dawdle
From: SLC,UT
Jun 16, 2014
climbed here on fri (6/13/14), nice spot to climb with good rock quality but beware of rattlesnakes. me and my climbing partner saw two rattlesnakes right next to the trail. we had to rap back down and take the long way out. thanks for putting up the rope on the staircase, it's definitely useful.
By Rochelle S
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 3, 2015
Climbs on the western face (right of Rusty's Staircaise) are great, thanks for setting them! belay area is tight down there, but climbing is worth it.

Really don't recommend climbing DOWN Rusty's staircase! We rapped down Road Rage (setup nice for a top roped project), and climbed out via Rusty's. 'staircase' is a misnomer - it's really technical scrambling at a 5.3 level.
By Zach Sims
From: Riverdale, UT
Jul 21, 2016
Don't approach the wall from the bottom! You might think it looks easier to walk along the old road, but there are some dangerous areas with loose rock that will send you down onto I-80 or the frontage road if you aren't careful.

Also this whole wall was pretty crimpy for the difficulty level.
By Tea
Aug 6, 2016
For historical purposes…"Rusty's Staircase" got it's name because my heeler puppy Russ Tea (who's kind of a bad ass) climbed the feature trying to meet me on top. Just sayin...
By cdec
From: SLC, UT
Jun 17, 2017
Added a bolt to the start of Two Shovels. Getting clipped is much more reasonable.
Folks have helped with cleaning the gulley and the base area and it is quite good now. THANK YOU!

Use the rope in the descent gulley for a belay anchor if needed.
I tried for a belay bolt but the rock down low won't have it.

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