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The Bulletheads

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Bulletheads North 
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Campground Wall 

The Bulletheads Rock Climbing 


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Location: 49.6782, -123.1515 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,138
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006
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The Sun shines on the Bulletheads

Description 

The Bulletheads have many excellent routes to offer with fewer crowds because of its interesting and complex ledge system that allows you to link different pitch combinations together. The Bulletheads south area is just as sunny as the Smoke Bluffs and is less exposed to wind; giving this area the longest climbing season on the Chief.

Getting There 

Primary access is through the climbers camp ground. Follow signs from highway 99. and park as for the Grand Wall. Walk through the campground and 50' past the custodian's house, turn left towards the cliff to reach the base.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.4 miles from here

29 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',13],['5.11',8],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Bulletheads

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bulletheads:
Sunshine Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Campground Wall
Slot Machine   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Bulletheads South
A Cream of White Mice   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   Bulletheads South
Golden Labs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   Bulletheads South
A Pitch In Time   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 30'   Campground Wall
Sloppy Gordie   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Campground Wall
Manana   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Bulletheads South
Coogee Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Bulletheads South
Bulletheads East   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Bulletheads, Central
Rainy Day Dream Away   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   Campground Wall
Xenolith Dance   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches   Bulletheads South
Liquid Gold   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   Bulletheads, Central
Krimo Gold   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 185'   Bulletheads, Central
Ride the Bullet   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Bulletheads, Central
Wild Turkey   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   Bulletheads North
The Black Book   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Bulletheads South
Varicose Veins   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Campground Wall
Alegria   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   Bulletheads South
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bulletheads

Featured Route For The Bulletheads
Rock Climbing Photo: AR on Wild Turkey as viewed from the belay ledge.

Wild Turkey 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  North America : Canada : ... : Bulletheads North
This is slightly left leaning shallow offwidth/flare. You end up getting good hand jams and finger locks galore all through it, which makes resting very possible anywhere, however, as there are no feet, it's a shallow, flaring and steep corner is it ends up being a total grovel fest of full body scumming, palming nothing and thrashing...pretty solid 35 meters of very sustained climbing, crux in the last 10 feet=) Once out of the flare you can head straight left on good ledge to dicey slab fini...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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