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The Bucket List 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett and Fred Knapp, 2008
Season: Late summer or early fall
Page Views: 1,421
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Sep 7, 2008

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This route starts 80 feet off the ground. Climb the right-hand (easier) version of Bruise Collector (step right six feet to another anchor) or climb Europithacus. Start with three bolts of desperate crimping on a high-angle slab-prow. Continue more easily up the shallow prow, placing small to medium cams in the dihedral to the right. Step right and climb a left-slanting intermittent crack (harder than it looks, so don't skip any pro) to reach the next bolt. Hard moves past this bolt gain a wild zigzagging line through roofs, passing three more bolts. This entire second crux is tricky, pumpy, and wild. Two raps to the ground.

I'll go with Bernard's 5.11a rating, but consider this an Eldo grade because this climb feels like a trad route despite seven bolts. If it were in Boulder Canyon, the grade might be considerably higher.

This is the best new pitch I've done on the Front Range in a year or two. A real testament to Mr. Gillett's vision and hard work.


Seven bolts plus a rack from sub-finger to hand size. A couple of slings will reduce rope drag.

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By Bob Rotert
Oct 3, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I visited this cliff for the first time last weekend and was really impressed with the great climbing here. We did this route, and it is indeed wild and awesome! One of the best on the cliff. I followed this one, and it felt a little harder than 11- to me. I like the Boulder Canyon comment Dougal posted above. \;o) He said, '"This would probably be 11d in Boulder Canyon. "
By Bob Rotert
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Revisited and led this today. Maybe some thing has changed since the FA put an 11a rating on it? Really cool climbing! Seemed definitely harder than 11a. Also, you have to do a solid 11 pitch to get to it so don't know how it comes in at 11- to begin with. Amazing climbing up through the stepped roofs.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Aug 6, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Great pitch! But closer to 11d than 11a.
By Mitch Musci
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 25, 2015

Fantastic vision by Mr. Gillett and Mr. Knapp. This pitch exemplifies the adventurous feel of climbing in the St. Vrain with awesome position and great movement on terrain that keeps you thinking. I found it to be pumpy in spots but never desperate...more a test of fancy footwork and stemming. Highly recommended!

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