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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 T 
Apoplexy T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
Cordelette Arete T 
Coronary T,TR 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Handy Andy T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Katzenjammer T 
Keyhole T 
Lower Eaves T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Pony Express T 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Short and Simple T 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie K. Block, The T 
Trust Jesus T 
Zoomulator T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Brat Direct 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bonnie Prudden, 1964
Page Views: 2,382
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Brat Direct


The Brat Direct is an exciting climb that will demand your attention. Among a few routes at the entrance of The Trapps, this gem stays well lit late into the day. Begin at the base of a large, broken, and obvious crack. Awkward climbing up and past a pin will keep your eyes wide open. Take a good rest, protect your next sequence of moves, and head up and right to a hidden blast hole. From this uneasy stance move over some lower angled rock to a small ledge. Get your balance and traverse left past another pin and top out on a large ledge before the hovering, yet solid boulder.


The Brat Direct is about 3 minutes down trail from the bridge at the entrance of The Trapps. Its sits on the right side of the first and most distinguished face before heading down-hill.


A few pins protect this route. long slings, medium sized stoppers, and gear from a .3 to a #3 bd are useful. A large tree at the top can be used as an anchor. Walk off.

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By kenr
Mar 22, 2012

Often done as a Top-Rope. Several (non-Direct) variations are straightforward on TR which might be more fun than the Direct line given.
Perhaps the easiest "cheaters" route is to traverse way Left early before the obvious crux crack, then diagonal back up right, then traverse long Right just above the crux crack to a gentler slab. Up the slab, then Left to the final (unavoidable) high crux (? 5.6 ? choice of finger-strength on uninviting holds versus good footwork and balance).

Less-easy face-climbing variation is to go roughly straight up to the high crux - going roughly parallel to the Direct crack line, but about five feet to the Left of it.

(There's a harder finish on the face a few feet right of the final crux, and doubtless other harder variations at other heights.)

I've usually found that the obvious crack low crux has some interesting footwork and balance to get into it, but then the key move is just a tough grunt. Nice as a challenge, but it's the Variations that keep me + partners coming back to Brat every year or so.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 8, 2012

A bit of a grunt near the bottom, eases up considerably as you ascend. Gear is PG

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