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Iron Horse Wall
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The Brakeman 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: First bolted and sent by Blake Workman circa 1990. Bolt line extended to top of wall by Lee Terveen. FA: Tyrel Ehns, 2017
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall. am shade. pm sun.
Page Views: 131
Submitted By: BBQ on Apr 11, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Winner of the 2017 Golden Bucket Award.

BBQ's Favorite New Route of 2017. 

"Short, tricky route that stops midway up the wall. Needs to be extended." (Cronin, 2011)

And now it has! This is a super fun, highly-intelligent, tech-nasty route just to the left of Iron Horse. The climbing starts on a bumpy bulge and has the climber thinking about how to stop a fall (dead in its tracks) just a few moves off the deck. Tricky side pulls and weird holds lead to a nice, two-finger pocket punch from high feet that seem to grind you to a halt. And while battling the first three bolts of the climb is probably the most interesting crux, more and more super-cool climbing awaits when this lower black panel of rock runs out of steam.

What must have been the original route ends after an overhung slab of black rock. The climbing quickly brings you to a strange land of flakes and rock formations that look chossy as shit, but trust me, every aspect of the rock is totally solid and trustworthy. Make a bunch of awesomely awkward moves on ridiculously-strange fun holds. Move up a belly to an overhung black bulge where a tossing crux finishes a series of moves that might have you falling many times before you figure out the sequence that makes it easy and efficient.

After a somewhat nail-biting first go, I can see why the original developer backed off on the upper section. However, even though the rock looks funky and strange, when compared to the bullet-proof beginning, the climbing past the first three bolts is actually very awesome with many moves and holds that might having you edging your toe into classic territory. A few yucky holds at the beginning, middle and end, make the rock quality three star, but overall the entire route is funtastic, well-bolted, and begs to become a project for the five eleven climber who wants to push into upper grades soon. If you are a fan of Engine No. 9, then you better get on The Brakeman. I dare say the moves on this route are more interesting than Engine and the trickiness definitely keeps you engaged and on the edge of your seat.


Be sure to STOP when you come across this route and GET ON IT!


At first glance this will appear to be the left-most route on the wall. The route is on black and tan rock. If you go about 10 meters to your left you will see a route on entirely black rock up in a strange gully. This is Mexican Mouse. The route directly to the right of The Brakeman is Iron Horse which has a variation/extension, known as Black Stallion, which shares its anchor with The Brakeman.


Bring 10 quickdraws. Open shut anchors.

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