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The Borg 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Ben Moon FFA Guthrie Equipped
Page Views: 2,173
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2005

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The full moon on The Borg. Photo: Bob Horan Collec...

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  • Description 

    This very bouldery route traverses out the massive overhang on the right side of the Frisky Cliff. A stout first dyno and swing, then heelhooks and crimps to a short corner and tricky slab. This route had its 15 minutes of fame when Ben Moon of the UK was photographed for Climbing Magazine in a snowstorm on this route. Some have argued for a harder grade but for today's bouldering mutants this may prove a pleasant morning's outing. Morning shade, well worth the hike.



    Comments on The Borg Add Comment
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    By Jim Redo
    Sep 9, 2004

    Is the first bolt still missing?
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 9, 2004

    The externally threaded bolt stud is there, but no hanger or nut.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Sep 10, 2004

    This would be a good candidate for a glue-in since it takes a lot of hard pulling from falling at the start.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 13, 2004

    This climb has one [redeeming] quality - it's steep. otherwise, there is no real line (you could just as well go up and over the roof at any point) and it was blasted to existence from the aqueduct. The fact that it got any press is attributable to the popularity of Moon at the time. There were likely hundreds of FAs at the time that should have been reported in lieu.
    By Taylor Roy
    From: Midvale, UT
    May 3, 2008

    As of 5/3/08 the hanger for first bolt on the overhang is missing again. What's the deal?
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    May 4, 2008

    There's a number 2 RP placement instead. As the retro-trad wave continues, look for more missing bolts/hangers....

    Seriously, the first bolt should be a glue-in since the leverage it gets is intense and virtually any hanger is eventually pried off. That's my guess. I noticed the problem when I did the route way back when and posted accordingly in 2004.
    By Scott Hahn
    Jun 29, 2008

    I replaced the hanger today. Hopefully this one lasts longer than the last.
    By Matt Battaglia
    Aug 19, 2009

    I got on this thing today: the first bolt is oldschool-sketch and then as I leaned out to try the crux moves I looked at the 2nd bolt and the nut on the bolt had nearly unwound itself. I tried to get it as tight as possible. Just an FYI, take a look to see if the hanger is well secured before going for the dyno crux, it may be good for your longevity. Dope bouldery opening sequence. The first 3 draws are in place at this time.
    By j wharton
    Nov 29, 2016

    I fell and hung on all the bolts in 2016, and they're fine.

    Great route. A tricky opening jump into sustained roof climbing that sticks with you all the way until you rock onto the slab.

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