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A Wonderful Life T 
American Caesar T 
Aquarius Rising T 
Barbarian Rising T 
Bootlegger, The T 
Brother From Another Mother  S 
Brother Of Fortune T 
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Consensual Hex T 
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Harder They Come, The T 
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Kindness T 
Labor Day T 
Locks of Dread T 
Natural Enhancement T 
No Feelings T 
No Utopia T 
Parting Gift T 
Proud Father T 
Resurrection T 
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Soldier of Fortune T 
Soul Market T 
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Trident, The T 
Turn Down, For What? T 
Vietnam Vacation T 
Wasp Whisperer T 

The Bootlegger 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: J Unema, D Bloom
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,194
Submitted By: Joel Unema on Oct 8, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The Bootlegger

Description 

A day at the Waterfall is incomplete without a visit to the Bootlegger! This new mixed addition to the Right Wall offers a variety of movement on great rock and is just plain fun. Begin in the large corner beneath the Consensual Hex/Dr. Octagon roof and trend left into the blocky system on the left side of the corner. Continue up through interesting calcite-covered blocks through a bulge roof, passing 2 bolts to gain a face. Clip another bolt and move into the splitter hand crack that leads to a small ledge. From the small ledge bust right with a hand traverse on a slab to gain the beautiful corner above. Sink your hands and fingers into the cracks until they pinch down and get ready for some wild gas-pocket jug climbing and stemming!

Location 

Right of Proud Father, left of Consensual Hex

Protection 

The start takes a handful of cams from 0 C3 to #1 C4. Three bolts protect the middle, and the finish takes a double set cams from tips to #0.75 C4


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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 9, 2014

This was always on my list, but I guess a little too far down. I had wanted to at least do the right hand variation finish to Proud Father, which is now the top of Bootlegger. I'm assuming the link up works? I'm sure it would bump up the overall quality of Proud Father to exit right.

Good work you guys. The middle section looked pretty gnarly.
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 9, 2014

Yes! The end of this would make a great and longer finish to proud father!
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 21, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This thing has cleaned up real nice!
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Feb 20, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This climbs much better than it looks from the ground.
By Tim Heid
From: AZ
Feb 6, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I always have a great time on this one. A great warm up since there are plenty of rests between harder moves. The stemming up top is out of this world fun!

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