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The Bookmark

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
Backflip T 
Bellyflop T,S 
Between The Sheets T 
Bookmark OW T 
Cave Route T 
Coleman's Complex T 
Crack of No Return T 
Dead in Bed T 
East Side T 
Fall Out T 
Fantasy Ridge T 
Goose, The T,S 
Inside Straight T 
Joy and Tribulation T 
Klingon (with direct start) T 
Manhole Cover T 
Marginal Line T 
Original Fantasy Ridge T 
Penis Chimney T 
Plan A T 
Rhythm Method T 
Romulan Territory T 
Screamin' Eagles S 
Seams Like A Dream T 
Skid You Not T 
Sojourn T 
Son of a Pitch T 
Star Trek T 
Time Machine T 
Twiggy's Crack T 
Virgin Spring T 
Wigglin' Fingies T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Bookmark Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,795'
Location: 40.40613, -105.53573 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 39,109
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
This Afternoon

67° | 29°

41° | 30°

56° | 36°

56° | 32°

54° | 32°

62° | 34°
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BETA PHOTO: The Bookmark, from the Bookend.

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


Actually a subsidiary cliff to the Book, the Bookmark has some fantastic routes and is always less crowded, despite a shorter approach. Romulan Territory is a quintessential Lumpy 5.10 corner climb, and both Melvin's Wheel and Backflip climb beautiful 5.8 cracks and corners. Fantasy Ridge (5.9) is a unique must-do climb. Descent: very confusing. Downclimb or a do a short rappel (if summiting). Get established in either of the recesses (east or west) flanking the rock. Both will necessitate funky down-climbing and/or annoying rappel(s). Many routes end in the recess east of the summit; locate [a 2 bolt anchor with chains through a slot & stance facing the gully. Also, the fin where Fantasy Ridge and Joy and Tribulation top out has a bolted anchor. It is on the corner of the fin between the fin and the summit block, once again pretty obvious chains. From this anchor, a 100 foot rappel down into the gully (towards the Left Book) will deposit you at a hidden sling anchor under a chockstone (not visible from above.) A 50M rope will put you within an easy scramble of this anchor. Then, it's one more short rap and a scramble to the base of the Left Book. This descent is now pretty casual. There is talk of replacing the chain anchors with something less visually offensive.]

Getting There 

From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Then, head west from the old Twin Owls parking lot, turn off right for the Book, and then turn off left for the Bookmark (follow signs). ~40-45 minutes to approach.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.9 miles from here

33 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Bookmark

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bookmark:
Original Fantasy Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   
The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
East Side   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Backflip   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches   
Inside Straight   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Fantasy Ridge   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches   
Penis Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Grade II   
Joy and Tribulation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches   
Star Trek   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X     Trad, 3 pitches, 450'   
Klingon (with direct start)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Dead in Bed   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Romulan Territory   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
The Goose   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Bellyflop   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Between The Sheets   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Wigglin' Fingies   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Seams Like A Dream   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bookmark

Featured Route For The Bookmark
Rock Climbing Photo: Farfrombright working out the crux.

Coleman's Complex 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Colorado : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
This awesome pitch is located in the gorgeous inset, left of Inside Straight and right of Virgin Spring. It's a brilliant, thin splitter that passes an overhang and the route continues up to the Library Ledge anchors (Melvin's). Bernard Gillett's book gives this pitch an "R" rating, which may be fitting, all the gear is small, the rock not so-travelled, and the crack a little weedy. But after watching J-dog piss on it, it looked pretty well protected. Nonth...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of The Bookmark Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bookmark Pinnacle.
BETA PHOTO: Bookmark Pinnacle.
Rock Climbing Photo: Third rap is hard to find. We slung a large rock a...
BETA PHOTO: Third rap is hard to find. We slung a large rock a...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the fourth and last rappel anchor to get y...
BETA PHOTO: This is the fourth and last rappel anchor to get y...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fantasy Ridge climbers 9/13/8 on a one fine day.
Fantasy Ridge climbers 9/13/8 on a one fine day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bookmark area.
BETA PHOTO: Bookmark area.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Bookmark from SE
BETA PHOTO: The Bookmark from SE

Comments on The Bookmark Add Comment
Show which comments
By pete cogan
Jun 28, 2003
A note on the rap chains which have replaced the "dead tree" anchors. As you rap into the gully off these chains toward the left book, you'll note two slings and a biner as you are very close to running out of your 60M rope. We put these on 6/28/03 as what used to be there was gone.
By Joe Collins
Jul 14, 2003
Adding to what Pete said above, the usual threaded rap slings in the gully have been removed. Apparently some selfish individual has delegated to the rest of the community their opinon on what constitutes an unacceptable way of descending the Bookmark.

A slung block (blue webbing with rap ring) can be found below by scrambling down the ramp next to the old rap spot. Better yet, if someone reads this who is heading up to the Bookmark, bring some black or grey webbing and a rap ring and re-establish the old rap anchor.
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 12, 2003
There is now two large slings and two rap rings at the 100 ft. mark below the chains, when rapping toward the Left Book. Thanks to those who replaced them.
By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Jun 27, 2005
There is a new (for me) set of bolts and chains on the west side of the notch. About 90' down is a slung chockstone (two slings and two rap rings as of yesterday). This second rap brings you to a little easy scrambling and onto hiking terrain. It's a much better rap than heading down the east gully; especially if your packs are on the west side of the rock.
By W. Spaller
Nov 10, 2008
Be very careful when pulling your rope off of the gully rap. A large rock fell from the gully and almost hit me and my partner. Be careful and have fun up there!
By Meg
From: Moab, UT
Jun 19, 2010
So, in a moment of sheer stupidity, I dropped my shoe off of the second pitch of Romulan Territory today. Much searching for it afterwards today did not turn it up. So, if anyone finds a left, Scarpa Vision shoe, I would LOVE it back! Thanks - Megan 303-842-2910.
By Wes F
Apr 17, 2017
My wallet took a 300 foot plunge on the Backflip route. Most of the content was recovered. I lost about $20 in cash. I apologize if anything else is littered on the cliff face. Also my second dropped a runner with Camp Nano biners. Finders keepers.

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