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The Bookend 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 2,039
Submitted By: roddack on Apr 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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The start of The Bookend (aka The 5.7 Corner)

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  • Description 

    Easy steps lead to mental cruxes. either stem right and hug the outside for a few moves or stay in the corner


    Left bookend



    Comments on The Bookend Add Comment
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    By Ryan A. Williams
    From: Burlington, VT
    Aug 26, 2011
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    I've heard of this climb being referred to as one of (the left) the "5.7 Corners". I was surprised to see it graded as both 5.5 and PG13. In my opinion the protection is great and it's at least 5.6. Great stances the whole way but some fun moves in between.
    By Keyan P
    From: Brooklyn, NY
    Sep 20, 2011
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Is this referring the left "5.7" corner? I found the protection on the climb to be adequate and there is an old piton out to the right to protect the crux (should you choose not to go straight up the corner). In my opinion the climb is a solid 5.7, as the other name implies.
    By Taylor VanRoekel
    Aug 30, 2012

    Gear is a little spacey if you don't bring anything small, but the runouts are exciting. Def not a 5.5- I don't know where that grade came from. Solid 5.7, if not soft 5.8.
    By Derek Doucet
    Aug 31, 2012

    See the new Peckham guidebook. This is "The 5.7 Corner". It protects very well with a standard rack. The pin mentioned above is not especially useful as lead pro, but does serve as a helpful directional if top roping from the trees. Without it, a climber falling in the crux section can pendulum back in to the left wall of the corner.
    By Svea Closser
    Sep 9, 2012
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    protection is fine for this beginning leader
    By Nate K
    From: Richmond, VT
    Aug 6, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    The jug flake in the middle of this route has gotten significantly looser and scarier in recent years. and its got a wasp nest in it at the bottom. also its 5.7, not 5.5 and the pro is good all the way up
    By TSluiter
    From: Holland, VT
    Oct 9, 2015

    Newly installed bolts on top, have to rap to them to get there safely to set up TR. Awesome climb, lots of stemming. Pro is solid, stay small. Loose block at the top, last hold. Probably gonna stay as it's wedged in.

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