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The Bookend 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
Page Views: 2,096
Submitted By: roddack on Apr 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review


Easy steps lead to mental cruxes. either stem right and hug the outside for a few moves or stay in the corner


Left bookend



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By Ryan A. Williams
From: Burlington, VT
Aug 26, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I've heard of this climb being referred to as one of (the left) the "5.7 Corners". I was surprised to see it graded as both 5.5 and PG13. In my opinion the protection is great and it's at least 5.6. Great stances the whole way but some fun moves in between.
By Keyan P
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 20, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Is this referring the left "5.7" corner? I found the protection on the climb to be adequate and there is an old piton out to the right to protect the crux (should you choose not to go straight up the corner). In my opinion the climb is a solid 5.7, as the other name implies.
By Taylor VanRoekel
Aug 30, 2012

Gear is a little spacey if you don't bring anything small, but the runouts are exciting. Def not a 5.5- I don't know where that grade came from. Solid 5.7, if not soft 5.8.
By Derek Doucet
Aug 31, 2012

See the new Peckham guidebook. This is "The 5.7 Corner". It protects very well with a standard rack. The pin mentioned above is not especially useful as lead pro, but does serve as a helpful directional if top roping from the trees. Without it, a climber falling in the crux section can pendulum back in to the left wall of the corner.
By Svea Closser
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

protection is fine for this beginning leader
By Nate K
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 6, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The jug flake in the middle of this route has gotten significantly looser and scarier in recent years. and its got a wasp nest in it at the bottom. also its 5.7, not 5.5 and the pro is good all the way up
By TSluiter
From: Holland, VT
Oct 9, 2015

Newly installed bolts on top, have to rap to them to get there safely to set up TR. Awesome climb, lots of stemming. Pro is solid, stay small. Loose block at the top, last hold. Probably gonna stay as it's wedged in.

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