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Prophesy Wall
Routes Sorted
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Beware of the Gong S 
Book of Prophesy Var., The T 
Breaking the Sabbath S 
Caging the Zealot S 
Conditional Bliss S 
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 
Equanimity S 
False Prophets S 
Gordian Knot S 
Grumpy Old Men S 
Harbingers S 
Harsh Reality S 
Lunatic Cry T 
Misfit Prophets S 
Mystic Dictator S 
Non-Technical Church Socks T 
Past Lives S 
Prescience S 
Remains to be Seen S 
Roofs of Jericho, The S 
Secrets of Fatima, The S 
Ship of Fools S 
Soffit of Jericho, The S 
Softscrub TR 
Sticky Revelations S 
Technical Knee-Highs S 
Thieves Karma S 
Unknown S 
Visionaries, The S 
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 
Wooden Hammer T 

The Book of Prophesy Var. 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: M. Nad, J. Nad
Page Views: 2,162
Submitted By: grk10vq on Aug 27, 2009

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Looking down Book of Prophecy


On the ledge about about half way up Sticky Revelations is a right facing corner. The Book of Prophesy Variation is a good traditional pitch using all techniques of climbing. It ascends a crack that ends on a short steep face.

Climb any of the many south-side routes to gain the large ledge 70' up. From the ledge look north/left to locate the crack.
A little hard to get into, this route eventually eases up lie-backing through a solid and varnished corner using finger-locks, then jams. Follow the crack up and slightly right reaching the crux 30 feet up at a bulge. Continue past this bulge following a petering crack climbing the face on large edges to the belay.


About 70' above pitch 1 of Sticky Revelations is a ledge. On the far left side of this ledge is an anchor and the start of this right facing crack corner. Its the only and most obvious crack on this side.


This crack takes mostly small to medium protection. A full, single rack up to 3", stoppers, slings and draws will work just fine.

Photos of The Book of Prophesy Var. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bullet holes at the first belay ledge on Book of P...
Bullet holes at the first belay ledge on Book of P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob running it out on the Book of Prophecy Variati...
Rob running it out on the Book of Prophecy Variati...

Comments on The Book of Prophesy Var. Add Comment
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By Bruce Nielson
Aug 10, 2011

Doubles for Camelot #4&5
By SMH Climber
From: Midvale, UT
Nov 29, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb was a lot of fun I combined the left bolt line on breaking the sabeth with book of prophesy for one long climb. Lots of fun, just use alot of long runners and rope drag should not be a problem at all. My largest cam was a #4 cam but the run out (about 15 feet) was not bad. The crux is before the crack widens and protected well with a #1 Cam.
By JP Shrewsbury
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I climbed this route on a top rope from the Book of Prophesy rap station, reached by traversing the upper part of the 'regular' P2 to "Sticky Revelations" (S.R.). The start was reached by rapping to the large P1 ledge above "Breaking the Sabbath." This variation was the most fun of all the S.R. pitches. It was considerably more difficult than the other P2s of S.R. and about as hard (but slightly less exposed) than the 5.10a third pitch. I rate it at 5.9.
By Jeremy Polk
From: Sandy, UT
Apr 2, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If this feels harder than 5.8, try doing it differently. I used a single set of cams from tcu's up to a #4 Camelot and didn't place any nuts at all. I linked this with the 5.10 finish to make for a really cool pitch. If the route directly below this is being used, you can build an anchor in the crack with medium to large sized gear but make sure you have doubles in those sizes because you'll need them for the climb. There are 3 different 5.7ish bolted routes to get to the big ledge that this climb starts from so take your pick for the first pitch.

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