The Book of Pleasure
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C1+
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Mike Baker, Lesli Henderson, March 1994 - 5.9 C1+ |
Page Views: | 789 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Airbiscuit on Jan 6, 2007 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
P1: solo up the short perfict hand crack to the alcove that marks the start of the of the Ribbed Buttress.
P2 or P2/3: start the ribbed buttress climbing a short, semi-rotten chimney to the second rib and a newish 3/8" bolt. Belay here to minimize rope drag or climb on if you have managed things properly. From here, traverse right for 8 feet or so on sketchy, broken 5.8. Aiding a few last pieces to get around the corner. From here, follow the line of fixed pieces for fifty feet or so expecting a few exciting moves till entering the Book. Climb up twenty feet in the book to a hidden belay at a decent stance.
P3 or 4: you are now at the base of some sweet climbing fire up the "Book of Pleasure" at 5.9 hands for 100'+/- to a bolt and pin belay. 20' or so below the intimading roof.
P4 or 5: thrutch up the munge at 5.10 or C1 awkward and out the roof on solid cams. Turn the roof and climb to the rim. Rope drag is a bitch on this pitch.
P2 or P2/3: start the ribbed buttress climbing a short, semi-rotten chimney to the second rib and a newish 3/8" bolt. Belay here to minimize rope drag or climb on if you have managed things properly. From here, traverse right for 8 feet or so on sketchy, broken 5.8. Aiding a few last pieces to get around the corner. From here, follow the line of fixed pieces for fifty feet or so expecting a few exciting moves till entering the Book. Climb up twenty feet in the book to a hidden belay at a decent stance.
P3 or 4: you are now at the base of some sweet climbing fire up the "Book of Pleasure" at 5.9 hands for 100'+/- to a bolt and pin belay. 20' or so below the intimading roof.
P4 or 5: thrutch up the munge at 5.10 or C1 awkward and out the roof on solid cams. Turn the roof and climb to the rim. Rope drag is a bitch on this pitch.
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