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The Bong Family 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Karpel and John Biddick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 612
Submitted By: Garv Andzev on Jul 22, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Climber moving into upper chimney from top of flak...


On the north side of the cliff, about 20 feet in, is a 25 foot dihedral which ends at horizontal crack. Climb the dihedral and the flake above, then traverse left into the upper wide crack. Climb crack to end, place gear, and move left onto face. Clip first of three bolts. Move left towards arête and clip second bolt. Go up to third bolt (shared with Crazyhorse) and make difficult exit moves.


Standard Needles rack, some medium length runners, and draws. Chain anchor. One 70 meter rope will bring you back from your visit with the Bong Family.

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By Cheyenne Chaffee
From: North Conway, NH
Jun 7, 2014

Great route! Nice place to hang out on a hot day. I would say its more like 5.9, but would like to hear what others think.
By David Deville
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Aug 25, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I did not see the second bold as per the description here. I found one bolt not too far out from the crack and then there was a moderate run out to the shared bolt just below the anchors. If the second bolt is there, it must be way over to the left.
By Ryan Emery
From: Black Hills, SD
Aug 27, 2016

Great route and my first 5.9 lead in the park! A little bit of everything- jams, chimney, face! A bolt has been removed from this route... I don't know the full story but I just led this today and having the third bolt would have been very nice! I would say this is more 5.9! As of 8/2716 there are only two bolts on the face.

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