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The Boneyard

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abby Gabby Goo S 
Armed Insurrection S 
Bangers and Mash S 
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship S 
Cindarella S 
First Fast Draw, The T,S 
Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle S 
Flying Serpents S 
Glide S 
Gym Jones Approved S 
Haggis, Neeps and Taties S 
Hijacked Project S S 
Last Slow Draw, The S 
Lucy Goosey S 
Lula Mae T 
Oink! Oink! T 
One-Armed Bandit S 
Renegade T 
Son of a Wanted Man T 
Stealing Melinda S 
Surfing the Whale's Back S 
Sweet Tater S 
Tanduay Time S 
Tao Bato S 
Trouble in Paradise S 
Unknown Road S 
Warrior's Path, The S 
Winona T 

The Boneyard Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.73135, -83.63968 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,598
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009
This Afternoon

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The Boneyard hosts a nice collection of moderate sport climbs on the South side of Muir Valley. Its North-facing aSpect makes this a good crag for warmer weather. Due to its proximity to the popular hard-man venue of "Midnight Surf", The Boneyard has become a popular option for warming up. Most of the routes here on the slabby side of vertical, and these lines generally involve a cruxy start followed by easier pocket pulling above. There are a handful of fully overhaning lines as well, but nothing harder than 5.11. The rock is gray and very grippy, almost sharp. Some of the routes can be sandy, but these are worthwhile routes.

There are a number of projects here, some open, some closed, and potential for many more.

Getting There 

Hike down into Muir Valley. Turn left at the bottom of the valley, and follow the road west, eventually crossing the creek. Turn left at a large grassy meadow on the left, and follow signage to "The Boneyard". A good trail climbs up the hillside through the trees. Turn right at the first intersection, go around the buttress, and follow the cliff-base trail for ~ 100yds to the main cirque.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.3 miles from here

29 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Boneyard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Boneyard:
Lula Mae   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 25'   
Oink! Oink!   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
One-Armed Bandit   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 80'   
Hijacked Project   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 47'   
Stealing Melinda   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 25'   
Lucy Goosey   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Armed Insurrection   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 80'   
Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Gym Jones Approved   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 72'   
Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bangers and Mash   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Trouble in Paradise   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 95'   
Glide   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Boneyard

Featured Route For The Boneyard
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on lead nearing the top.  My arms were so gone ...

Bangers and Mash 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : ... : The Boneyard
Climb up to the ledge and traverse right to clip the first bolt. Find a hidden hold to get past the first bolt and then bust out a move to get past the third and onto a ledge. Rest up and contemplate the rest of the route. Climb some slopey moves to reach jugs just left of a vertical rib. The last couple bolt lengths often get people....[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

Photos of The Boneyard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Boneyard, with Janelle climbing "Cinderel...
The Boneyard, with Janelle climbing "Cinderel...

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