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Body Electric, The 
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The Body Electric 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 30'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer (DWS)
Page Views: 1,422
Submitted By: Mateo San Pedro on Jul 5, 2013  with updates from jslice

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Making the deadpoint to the crimp rail

Description 

This climb took me two tries and is a great way to fool around on the rock during a hot summer in New Hampshire. The crux comes close to the top about 20' off the water. The topout is solid and pretty secure although the time I fell was in the top lieback crack/arete.

I've been told the water is too deep to ever touch bottom but always be aware of your fall zone and scope it out before trying it.

Location 

The climb starts out on the big wedged boulder beneath the downstream bridge. Shoe up and chalk up on the boulder. Next, chimney down until you can get into a big horizontal crack. Traverse out over the the big pool of Agassiz Basin until you are out over the water. The route climbs up and heads through a small bush a few moves into the route. Once below the steep overhang, do some face moves heading right towards the arete. Lieback into the crack there and head towards the lip.

Protection 

None. This is a deep water solo climb. Your only protection is water and your ability to swim.


Photos of The Body Electric Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot of Johnathan
Another shot of Johnathan
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnathan on "The Body Electric".
Johnathan on "The Body Electric".
Rock Climbing Photo: the crux (for me)
the crux (for me)
Rock Climbing Photo: details the general sequence of the climb
details the general sequence of the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Shows the downclimb, the traverse and the climb, s...
BETA PHOTO: Shows the downclimb, the traverse and the climb, s...

Comments on The Body Electric Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anson Roberts
Sep 3, 2015
rating: V5 6C

Such a good climb. Traverse in is straight forward. Crux for me was about 2/3 way up (1 move before going to the arete).


By Mateo San Pedro
From: OR
Sep 5, 2015

Glad you liked it and got on it! You take any falls on it or Warhammer???
By Dodge
Jun 13, 2017
rating: V0+ 4+

Not to put down the people who added this to mountain project, but it is not nearly V5. This thing is a classic local scramble that most people do barefoot with the general consensus that it's a steep but juggy 5.9. That would make it a V0/V0+ which is why I personally think the YDS system suits this area more than V grades since "Body electric" is definitely not a gimme. This climb is super fun though with great movement, exposure and the best landing out of all the lines in the "lower pool".
By Mateo San Pedro
From: OR
Jun 20, 2017

This thing (granted this is my memories from many years ago) felt harder than V0/5.9 without a doubt but I agree that V5 is ridiculous. Originally I put a YDS grade on this at around 5.11a I think? And then when I saw the video or Warhammer I put a Hueco grade on it for some reason. I chose V5 because my boulder and route onsight grade have always been far apart. I was onsighting V6 and 5.11+ at that time I did this. Because I took one fall, I made it a grade or two easier than my max. I would agree now that V5 is not the correct grade since on a photo on this page I commented: "...what did you think of the grade?...I did this 2nd go but it was back when I was pretty out of shape. I think it's probably easier than V5 looking back. Just wondering what your thoughts are?" Either way, felt like 11a to me but harder than 5.9
By jslice
Jul 8, 2017
rating: V4 6B

This definitely felt like a highball boulder problem above water rather than a route so I believe it should be graded with the Hueco scale at v4. In fact, I actually shredded a rope trying to practice a move on TR solo at the edge so be careful!
By Dodge
Jul 21, 2017
rating: V0+ 4+

11a is equal to V2 which seems fair I guess. A lot more reasonable than V5!

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