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War On Freedom S 

The Bobsled 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,053
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 5, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.

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  • Description 

    The Bobsled start right of The Art of Dreaming and left of Lucky Strikes. Climb up a short face behind a large pine to a bolt. Clip the bolt and begin a series of continuous moves up into a short right-facing corner above a roof. Follow the line of bolts up the corner past cool moves following steep rock to the anchor.


    8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of The Bobsled Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Art of Dreaming and nearby routes.
    BETA PHOTO: Art of Dreaming and nearby routes.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Bobsled and Lucky Strikes.
    BETA PHOTO: The Bobsled and Lucky Strikes.

    Comments on The Bobsled Add Comment
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    By Blake Treadway
    Nov 24, 2002

    What a great route! I attempted the route with the draws already on it and the second bolt clipped so I know all you anonymous cowards will diss the send but I got the flash. I can't wait to go back to do some more of the routes on the wall. I also attempted the 11b to the left of the Bobsled, but it was a hard warm up and will have to go next time. Both were a lot of fun. Thanks for the new routes.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Dec 16, 2002

    This route felt like 11b not 12a! Fun climbing in the right facing corner. Great route to do on a warm sunny Winter day.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jan 29, 2003

    I would concur that Bobsled is a bit soft for 12a, however, there is a reach problem passing the first clip that would be very hard if one lacked the ape index or were simply too short. This reflects the primary reason that it is difficult to assign an intrinsically optimal grade to a climb; the subjectivity of the rating can depend so much on exactly how one's own body "fits" the climb. I'm reminded of watching various of the hard core working The Seven PM Show in Rifle where a particularly wide pinch-grip would fit the big bear claws but a small pair of mits could never pop a thumb over the edge of the pinch. So for those with smaller hands the problem was essentially not doable. In the same vein, the reach from the start on Bobsled could be 5.12 for some and 5.11 for others. Overall, Bobsled seemed to offer interesting climbing with very brief cruxes followed by good, no hands, rest stances on solid rock that was well bolted.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 3, 2003

    I, too, would recommend stick clipping the second bolt. Very nice route. Tom Isaacson
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 11, 2003
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Nice route, overall. It has a few 5.11 cruxes with entertainment between. The first bit was fairly clean, but if I were to go back to it, I'd probably spend a little time cleaning it with my fingers, particularly the crystalline granite band by the feet by the first 3 bolts.I found that the sequence was a little something to figure out, but not much to execute. Transitioning into the undercling was tough until I backed down and found the right hands to start from. As well, moving to the second bolt was no prob with the right sequence, which requires either height or flexibility. I got a nearly-hands-free sequence between the two bolts with a great toe-hook/toe lock up and left in a "crotch" of the dihedral.

    Good fun and interesting moves. Mind puzzle not physical problem.

    Depends on the sequence and upon your height. It's tricky and so I suspect a lot of people will not find the easiest way on-sight. I did see one very good climber trying to figure it out before resorting to aid this AM.
    By TBD
    Jul 21, 2003
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    I thought the crux was pulling up around the small roof, near the forth bolt. The moves by the first bolt are a little tough to figure out, but not that hard to execute. A little awkward getting to the anchors.
    By Joe Collins
    Sep 2, 2003
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Best of the 5 routes I did at Plotinus.
    By Stephan Greenway
    Sep 14, 2003

    Great route with two distinct cruxes! Don't miss the right hand sidepull for the lower crux! The second clip was not a problem, maybe I got lucky.
    By slim
    Jul 18, 2012
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Interesting route. the crux is, well, setting up for the crux. Luckily you can easily get back down to the ledge to try another setup. I thought the bolt could have been placed a bit higher. It was a little spooky with the potential of swinging into the ledge/corner. The upper part is a lot of fun with nice rock.
    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Apr 28, 2013
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

    The righthand sidepull that Stephen (above) speaks of is definitely loose and about to go. Though thankfully there exists a sidepull slightly lower and to the left of said loose sidepull. Certainly makes the crux (which I thought was between bolts 1 and 2) a bit more reach and difficult but still doable. I normally wouldn't rate sport climbs of this nature PG13, or R for that matter, but this one warrants the PG-13 rating. First of all, the moves between bolts 1 and 2 are now considerably more difficult and above a) a large protruding boulder that could potentially injure the wary or fledgling 5.11+ leader, and b) you might receive a pinewood enema from a abnormally sharp branch located on the tree directly behind you when pulling crux moves. Other than that, this route is pretty good and can be combined with "Art of Dreaming's" roof pull for an interesting and more physical alternative than the OG Bobsled finish up the dihedral... let's call it "The Art of Bobsledding."

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