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Lower Tokopah Dome
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The Boardwalk Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 550'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Daniel Jeffcoach, Vitaliy Musiyenko (January 2014)
New Route: Yes
Season: Best in Spring, Summer and Fall. Doable and enjoyable in dry winters.
Page Views: 1,330
Submitted By: SirTobyThe3rd on Jun 3, 2014

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Sea of awesome knobs in the end of P1/ start of pi...

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A really fun route that follows a major chimney system on the SW face of Lower Tokopah Dome. It will not prepare you for the Steck Salathe, but is a worthy climb anyway. Once you are past the first pitch, the amount of chimneying depends on how much do you prefer this style of climbing vs friction and knob pulling. This route could have potentially been done by other climbers but research with locals have not brought out any claims for any routes that went up to the top of Lower Tokopah Dome. There were no bolts or other signs of passage noted on this route at the time of the ascent.

Pitch 1. 5.8 55 meters. Start from the left, up a short layback and get in the chimney proper. #6 camalot protects the squeeze crux of the pitch. Pull the second roof by climbing on face holds on the right side or by going straight in, which did not look as fun. Continue stemming, chimneying and face climbing on awesome knobs for almost the whole rope length. For anchor tie off giant chicken heads to climber's left of the chimney and some cams (BD #1) could be placed in a hidden crack. Fun and sustained pitch.

Pitch 2. 5.7 55 meters. Climb up the deep groove/chimney in the end of which you will have to do a full on 5.7 OW crux that involves heel-toe and chimney technique to get past. When you are past the hard part and in a fairly good stance, traverse a few moves left on a horizontal dike and make a gear anchor. You can place a BD 0.75 (green) camalot and protect the traverse. Anchor takes a variety of cams from #0.4 to 3 camalot.

Pitch 3. 5.7 PG 13, 60 meters. Climb up the chimney and after about 30 feet traverse right to cool knobs on the right. Get past the bulge, sling knobs and continue up taking the path that is more protected and seems reasonable. The mental crux is about 15 ft of 5.6ish friction above a few tied off chicken heads. Continue straight up and use the cool orange dike for some variety. Make a belay station at a nice stance with a solid crack for a gear anchor. Scramble to the summit and enjoy the views!

Location 

SW Face of Lower Tokopah Dome. Look for a prominent chimney with a double roof at the start of the route. It is hard to miss the start. Would be very difficult to get off route once you are in it. :)

Protection 

Single set of cams from green alien to #3 camalot. Single BD Camalot #6. Doubles in BD .4-75 sizes.

For confident climbers single set of camalots to #3 should be enough.


Photos of The Boardwalk Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Views of Tokopah Valley and The Watchtower across.
Views of Tokopah Valley and The Watchtower across.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one. Passing the second roof.
Pitch one. Passing the second roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Daniel starting pitch 2. Clean rock all around.
Daniel starting pitch 2. Clean rock all around.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of the Lower Tokopah Dome and the rou...
Another view of the Lower Tokopah Dome and the rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.6+ OW on pitch 2
5.6+ OW on pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: The Boardwalk Chimney. Hard to get off route here!
The Boardwalk Chimney. Hard to get off route here!

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