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The Blunt Arete 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jamie Coin
Season: All. am sun. pm shade.
Page Views: 48
Submitted By: BBQ on Mar 28, 2015

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The Blunt Arete 5.11a Had a bail beaner right be...

Description 

Climb a steep arete just to the right of Twist One Up. Small holds and hallucination inducing exposure grab onto the climber's brain right away as you make your way up the first half of the climb inch by miserable inch.

And then the fun starts!

Position yourself on a micro-ledge a million feet off the ground and search around for a tiny ass hidden hold that feels wicked insecure once you realize that you are hella far away from your last bolt and the next bolt is even farther away yet.

Spearfish Canyon meets Custer State Park! Many a fine climber have bailed off this thing to try something less hairy and scary.

Location 

Far right hand side of The Danks on the biggest, tallest buttress in the area.

Protection: This route is a bit run out. 

Take a dozen quickdraws. Enjoy the widely spaced bolts and open anchors.


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By Bob Rotert
Jul 6, 2015

This is a great route. It has fun climbing up the arête . But at the top You have to do a scary move and risk falling over an overhang to clip a bolt where if it were 3-6 inches lower could be clipped from a stance. I don't get it. The hard climbing is over once you clip the hard to clip bolt so it is almost pointless to have were it is. Also, even more confusing there are 2 chopped bolts right below and were the current bolt should be located, in a spot where you can clip it. Doesn't make sense for a route not put in on lead. Doesn't make sense if it was put in on lead. Unless the whole point was to make it a scary lead.

This had a bail biner on it when I did it 4th of July 2015 and I left it there for future parties. Might be good for future folks to do the same as a courtesy. I almost used it myself.

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