The Bluffs are perhaps the largest, most prominant features at Arapiles. They are a series of buttresses that extend out from the back of the Mount forming the right wall of the Central Gully. Bluff Major is the largest and furthest back of these, followed by Bluff Minor which sits in front. Several smaller formations are also encompassed in this area, including John's Pinnacle, Bard Buttress, Fang Buttress, and the Plaque Area (the last three of these being listed separately).
Climbing ranges from long moderates to short, difficult testpieces. Must do lines include Blockbuster (5), Missing Link (9), Scorpion (10a) and Scorpion Corner (11b), Quo Vadis (10b), Thunder Crack (10c), Kama Sutra (11+), Despatched (12a), Station to Station (12b), and Final Departure (12d). Grades are YDS.
Approaches vary depending on what part of the formations you are going towards, but the vast majority are approached via the Ali's scrambling route... this passage is on the north side of the Bluffs facing the campground. One can also pass through the bluffs via Ali Baba's Cave, a tunnel through the formation. On the other side is a long ledge system called Flinder's Lane. Many high quality routes begin from here, which is just on top of the Tiger Wall. Descent from the top of the Bluffs is via rappel. Ali's can be reversed to reach terra firma.
Climbing Season For the Mount Arapiles area.
Weather station 15.4 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Bluffs
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bluffs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bluffs:
Missing Link 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Scorpion 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 80'
Despatched 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For The Bluffs
Thunder Crack 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Australia
: Mount Arapiles
: ... : The Bluffs
Thunder Crack takes the obvious left-leaning cleft on the left side of the south-facing (shady) face of Bluff Major. Ascend this crack via stemming, contortion, and jamming. The story goes that this popular aid line was freed during Henry Barber's tour de force at Arapiles in 1975, despite many previous attempts. A crowd had gathered to watch, and as Hot Henry slung a horn and wrestled through the crux, he turned to ask who would second him up the route. There was simply a hush of silence an...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Josh linking Scorpion corner and Kamasutra
Josh Laitila on Scorpion Corner
Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major
Scorpion Crack on Bluff Major; Andy Anderson belay...
The mega-classic "Anxiety Neurosis", 26.
bluffs, thundercrack is the obvious overhanging cr...
The start of Final Departure, 27, a classic of the...