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The Bloodline 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Todd Battey, Dave Evans, Craig Fry & Rob Stahl 3/89, FFA: Eric Erickson, Craig Fry & Todd Battey
Page Views: 2,147
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 18, 2005

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Begin at the same spot as for Red Cross (5.12a) and clip the first bolt for that route. Traverse left past two more bolts until reaching the base of the left-slanting seam. One more bolt and a piton are at the base of the seam (11c to this point). Brilliant climbing on exquisite rock exists to the top. You will encounter a distinct crux (12) half way up the seam where a fixed #1 camalot is located. An ancient cactus is located on the ledge where the route ends. Maneuvering around the plant to avoid being pricked requires extra care; especially for the second!

Descend to the top of the rap anchor for Jamaican Bobsled.

Easily 5 out of 5 stars!!!


Camming units to 1", small to medium stoppers, and QD's for four bolts. Medium cams are needed for an anchor.

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By Vernon Stiefel
Dec 20, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Following during the initial traverse is spicy for the second. Exercise caution on some of the loose flakes.

Bobby P. (pictured on "Eureka" in photo submitted by DEE) onsighted this route!!
By D. Evans
From: Tustin, California
Nov 3, 2009

The FA party did the route free and rated it 11d. EE repeated it later and rated it 12a. I don't think Fry and Battey were with him on that occasion. Not sure where this FFA nonsense came from.
By Craig Fry
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This was my route, I worked it about 3 days and couldn't get past the crux 5.12 section mid way up the crack, Todd did a lot of work too. Todd came up with the name.

Meanwhile, they may have aided it, I don't remember that, and is disturbing to report it as an aid route (I'm not sure why it was?)

But I got Eric Ericsson to come out as my rope gun, and he fired it, he said it was 5.12 a/b. I followed next, along with everybody else.

Why would DE say I didn't do it with EE, has his memory completely failed him!!
By Rob Stahl
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 10, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I am pretty sure that Todd Battey and Dave Evans climbed the route free. I climbed it with 1 fall at the crux. I also placed the bolt below the 1 finger hole from a hook. The hold I was hooking on subsequently broke off, making the move to the "hole" a little or difficult.

The first lead I heard about without a fall (redpoint) was by Eric, but I wasn't there. Don't remember who told me about that, but seemed credible at the time.
By D. Evans
From: Tustin, California
Feb 12, 2011

It was our route, there was no "my route" about it.
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Feb 13, 2011

I drilled one of the bolts and pushed the high point at the time;....It's MY, mine, my........(Don't be stealing my route;....dont' even look at it.....look the other way....)...
By D. Evans
From: Tustin, California
Feb 13, 2011

Todd (G), thanks for reminding us!
By Rob Stahl
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 15, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

By Battman
Aug 26, 2012

Here's what I remember. The Bloodline is one of the cleanest cracks at JT with some tricky thin face moves to get to the start of the splitter. I remember trading leads, yo-yo style, to get to the crack. Gordo and others had their moments of glory pushing the high point. We pushed it from the gound up. My best ground-up effort involved a couple hangs, and by the time I had done that A1 ascent I think some of us had top-roped this beautiful line. I remember Craig took another strong climber out there to bag the first lead, and he was shut down. When we took E out there, and it's OUT THERE, he fired the lead. He deserves the credit for the first clean lead.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jan 6, 2013

Hey Battman....nice summary of the events surrounding the FA of Bloodline. Great route name as well.

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