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Wasp, The T 

The Blocks Direct 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Joshua Reinig 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Joshua Reinig on Mar 24, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Starting crimps of The Blocks Direct!

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Climb the grim crimps up middle of Triangle block, V3 boulder problem, until it becomes possible to grab and mantle apex of triangle. Good rest at half way point here and only opption for pro to protect the headwall BP Crux. Even though protection is bomber you will deck if you blow the crux mantle.
Can also be TR safely.


Starts on obvious Large triangle block just left of the start of the Blocks. Crux climbs thin side pulls between top of Knob Job and The Blocks.


Cams .3 .5 .75 and stoppers to #9.
Can protect the finger crack entering the blocks crux, then down climb back to keystone will result in a bad swing. Guess it's better than decking. Also watch getting clipped by top of Triangle Block would be really bad to flip upside down from catching this feature.

Photos of The Blocks Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Headwall BP Crux of The Blocks Direct!
BETA PHOTO: Headwall BP Crux of The Blocks Direct!
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at The Blocks Direct.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at The Blocks Direct.

Comments on The Blocks Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ally McBeal
Dec 19, 2015

Wouldn't a couple of bolts make more sense than the gear in the finger crack shananigans?
By erikr
Dec 29, 2015

this is not a route. It's a climbable feature a couple of feet from a 5.4.
Toprope soloed it into submission during lunch break.

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