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The Block
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Block Party, The 
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The Block Problem 

Hueco: V9- Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V9- Font: 7C [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,339
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Nov 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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When you don't use the left hand jug and dyno....

Description 

Sit start low in a sort of ditch with a crimpy left hand and a slopey right hand, from here move up to another sloper then get in a stance and dyno for a shelf that as a decent lip, from here work up through easier holds to meet up with The Cock Block and top out there.

Location 

Two feet right of The Cock Block.

Up and right of the Umbrella Boulder, a little strange to get to there is no clear defined path but if you walk a up and right path from the far right point of the Umbrella you will find it.

Protection 

Pad and a good spotter.


Photos of The Block Problem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike setting up for the big throw. (Entering the c...
Mike setting up for the big throw. (Entering the c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sticking the crux deadpoint on 'The Block Problem'...
Sticking the crux deadpoint on 'The Block Problem'...
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Line - The Cock Block V6 Yellow Line - The Blo...
Red Line - The Cock Block V6 Yellow Line - The Blo...

Comments on The Block Problem Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 14, 2016
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Apr 9, 2012

So. Is this problem an eliminate, There are other holds than in this description.
By mattgiossi
From: warwick ri
Apr 12, 2012

I had a question for any one who can answer .last weekend I did a variation of block problem from the right overhung blocks traversing into the crimpon block problem working up the slopers on the arete to the top out for block problem felt about v10 just want to know if anyone knows if this variation has been done before and if so the grade.really fun climb.thanks
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 12, 2012

Yeah, isn't that an old George Wendall route?...Just kidding. (the Wendalls were probably the earliest pioneers of Rumney climbing, in case people don't know)
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Apr 12, 2012

Its not an eliminate, it climbs the path of the yellow line.

I have not heard of that variation before, I would say post the route and if anyone has info they will let you know then it can updated to be accurate
By mattgiossi
From: warwick ri
Apr 13, 2012

hahaha nice mark and thanks matt ill post it when i get back sun
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Apr 15, 2012

thanks mattw i didn't see that yellow line.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jun 15, 2014

One thing I have always been confused about this route is if the pocket/jug is off? This hold is about 10 inches left of the starting crimp and sloper.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 24, 2014
rating: V9- 7C

I'm not sure how it was originally done, but most people definitely use it.

To clarify further, when I did it, I started with my left hand on the block crimp/edge and my right on the sloper right next to it. Pulled off the ground and went to the higher crimp with my right hand and then moved my left hand into the incut/pocket thing and made a large deadpoint to the crimp rail with my right hand. The beta from there is kind of personal preference, though still powerful. It felt like somewhere around hard v8/soft v9 this way, though if you're a power beast you might think it is slightly easier. I found the deadpoint to be a very low percentage crux move.
By Daniel Olmschenk
Mar 12, 2016
rating: V9 7C

I understood this problem to be an eliminate, with the pocket out left as off; but the problem is fun either way. Not sure if one way is easier; the eliminate felt solid at the book grade.
By Vince Schaefer
From: Boston, MA
Nov 13, 2016

Well, the Jug Argument is moot now... Came off as a large piece pretty effortlessly...Not much of a jug anymore. The Move is still great!
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Nov 14, 2016

Oh man, I knew it was only a matter of time for that hold! Was there any hold left behind? Looks like have to work on this line again!

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