The Blade, note how it looks like an open book. G...
This area is pretty shady and doesn't draw the crowds that the Upper Mountain crags (Boy Scout Ledges and Middle Earth) get. Most of the climbers at Devil's Kitchen will be top roping, with The Blade being no exception. The one lead climb is Gunboat Diplomacy, a well-protected 5.4.
The Blade is located in Devil's Kitchen, the first crag you come across at Sugarloaf Mountain. Most climbers take the road all the up to the top and park in the West View parking lot to climb the Upper Mountain crags at Boy Scout Ledges and Middle Earth. On the way up you'll pass the East View parking lot on your left and then take a 90 degree left hand turn. Once you make the turn, the Devil's Kitchen is a 600 foot crag on your right. About 50 feet after the left hand turn there's a small picnic area with parking alongside the road. Park here and walk past the picnic area up to the crag. The Blade is located about 50 feet past the classic crack Slow & Easy. Look for a dihedral shaped like an open book with an obvious arete as the right side of the book. Car to crag is about three minutes.
Climbing Season For the Sugarloaf Mountain area.
Weather station 6.0 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Blade
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Blade:
Featured Route For The Blade
Gunboat Diplomacy 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c MD
: Sugarloaf Mountain
: ... : The Blade
Gunboat Diplomacy begins on a ramp and continues up the angled wall. It follows the crack right up the inside of the "open book" that defines the wall. The crux is at the top, where the crack will want to suck you in. The trick is moving left onto the face at the end. The Blade itself (arete) is much harder than 5.4 probably 5.11 or 5.12. It starts out pretty sharp but turns into a real sloper near the top and overhangs about 5 degrees or so....[more] Browse More Classics in MD