Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Blade

Select Route:
Gunboat Diplomacy  T 

The Blade Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.40851, -77.08311 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 603
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Blade, note how it looks like an open book. G...

Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>


This area is pretty shady and doesn't draw the crowds that the Upper Mountain crags (Boy Scout Ledges and Middle Earth) get. Most of the climbers at Devil's Kitchen will be top roping, with The Blade being no exception. The one lead climb is Gunboat Diplomacy, a well-protected 5.4.

Getting There 

The Blade is located in Devil's Kitchen, the first crag you come across at Sugarloaf Mountain. Most climbers take the road all the up to the top and park in the West View parking lot to climb the Upper Mountain crags at Boy Scout Ledges and Middle Earth. On the way up you'll pass the East View parking lot on your left and then take a 90 degree left hand turn. Once you make the turn, the Devil's Kitchen is a 600 foot crag on your right. About 50 feet after the left hand turn there's a small picnic area with parking alongside the road. Park here and walk past the picnic area up to the crag. The Blade is located about 50 feet past the classic crack Slow & Easy. Look for a dihedral shaped like an open book with an obvious arete as the right side of the book. Car to crag is about three minutes.

Climbing Season

For the Sugarloaf Mountain area.

Weather station 6.0 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Blade

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Blade:
Gunboat Diplomacy    5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Blade

Featured Route For The Blade
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the line up the center of the open book, le...

Gunboat Diplomacy 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : ... : The Blade
Gunboat Diplomacy begins on a ramp and continues up the angled wall. It follows the crack right up the inside of the "open book" that defines the wall. The crux is at the top, where the crack will want to suck you in. The trick is moving left onto the face at the end. The Blade itself (arete) is much harder than 5.4 probably 5.11 or 5.12. It starts out pretty sharp but turns into a real sloper near the top and overhangs about 5 degrees or so....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Comments on The Blade Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!