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The Black Wonton 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Magness, Mike Sturgeon 5/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 817
Submitted By: chris magness on Jun 28, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: TBW follows the yellow line, Bag of Tricks follows...

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Description 

A wild little roof problem. Short and pumpy. Start left of Bag of Tricks and right of The Easy Way on a moderate slab. Look for a short roof crack 15' off the ground.

Climb the moderate but unprotected slab to the roof crack. Place a somewhat blind cam and make a committing move into the roof. Make a big move to some hidden jugs and a pumpy stance to place gear in a left angling horizontal finger crack (crux). Follow the horizontal left to an unlikely jug. Trend up and left following cracks across easier terrain to a two bolt anchor on top of The Easy Way.

Location 

The Lower Tier, between The Easy Way and Bag of tricks.

Protection 

Cams. .4-2, crux takes .4 and .5. Optional 3.5 in a pod turning the roof.


Photos of The Black Wonton Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: into the crux on the FA
into the crux on the FA
Rock Climbing Photo: TBW follows the yellow line, Bag of Tricks follows...
BETA PHOTO: TBW follows the yellow line, Bag of Tricks follows...
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving up and out the roof crack
Moving up and out the roof crack

Comments on The Black Wonton Add Comment
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By chris magness
Jun 28, 2012

We'll need a consensus grade here. I was pumped and placing the crux gear and getting it right is damn hard. Two pieces help, it's shallow!

Named for Mike's dog, Friday, who has a feature similar to the roof crack.