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A Faint Horizon S 
Assassin , The S 
Black Solitaire, The S 
Broad Axe S 
Continental Drift S 
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 
Hermit, The S 
Holy Roller S 
Lost Solitude S 
Lucky Old Sun S 
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 
Man On the Moon S 
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Scythe, The S 
Silent Shout S 
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Solitaire S 
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Thunderbird Arête  S 
Whiplash S 

The Black Solitaire 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Joel Unema, JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 1,333
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Feb 14, 2015

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Living life high above Flagstaff, AZ... tamarahast...

Description 

A sweeping, stunning pitch, The Black Solitaire is in many ways "Thee Line" on the Main Wall. This pitch is the harder twin to Solitaire, which the line also starts on, for a diamond can only be polished by means of other diamonds....

After the bulging first crux of Solitaire at bolt #8, keep moving up and right into a fat, black water streak. A pumpy shake is followed by both a mix of old school 1/4" pad cranking, and then a superb series of technical, crimpy compression cruxes. It's pretty brilliant climbing if you enjoy thought provoking power endurance.

Gorgeous jugs await at the top, and a standing anchor clip.


A bonus is that it is rather easy to lower from Solitaire's anchor to The Black Solitaire anchor to rig TRs or hang draws, etc.

Location 

Center of the Main Wall. Starts on Solitaire.

Protection 

13 bolts, 3 of which are chain draws
10 draws, though I'd recommend a handful of long draws, and a runner or two down low.
2 bolt anchor with fixed biners


Photos of The Black Solitaire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim on The crux of Solitaire. The Black Solitaire ...
Jim on The crux of Solitaire. The Black Solitaire ...

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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 24, 2015

Thanks to Joel for making this pitch official. Wish I could have seen the send.