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Black One, The S 

The Black One 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Probably MHong
Season: Any time baby
Page Views: 1,387
Submitted By: Evan S on Aug 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Start with an awkward layback, reach to single pad positive holds, then up to an akward hug/open hand pinch on a big protruding hold. From there make the big reach to a good grip just over the bulge. Surpass this obstacle then finish on thin but mostly positive holds to the anchors.


In the back room, on the east wall.


Gym draws.

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By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Aug 26, 2009

I really hope none of you take this seriously. Although, maybe we could start a new trend here on MP. Hummmhh...
By Eli Helmuth
From: Ciales, PR
Aug 26, 2009

Give it up while you're 'ahead' there, EVS.
Gym climbing doesn't count, period...especially on the MP.
Try for some sympathy....
Or go outside for some fresh air- chalk dust can clog the brain waves!
By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Aug 26, 2009

Really? I mean, really? What part of "I really hope none of you take this seriously" didn't you understand? Humor is lost on so many poor souls...sad.
By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Aug 27, 2009

Sorry Eli, didn't mean anything by that, slap on wrist, Leo put me in my place...but the damn route stays!
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

You sandbagger.

Maybe a foothold broke or something. The chalk dust may have been particularly thick that day.

Definitely straight 11.
By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Nov 22, 2009

Strangely enough, geological forces seem to move quite quickly here, the route has completely changed in character and is now unrecognizable, it's even a different color, how peculiar.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Mar 13, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X

I noticed that. What an amazing thing--to be present at such a remarkable event. Luckily, the alteration has left us with an equally impressive route, which is the norm for this crag. Phil's right. I think the new route is around 11b. Enjoy!

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