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The Palisade
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Black Mama, The T 
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The Black Mama 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
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Page Views: 1,048
Submitted By: Scotty Nelson on Oct 24, 2012

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Pitch 1.

Description 

The Black Mama climbs an impressive crack system on the west side of the Palisade.

The climb is named after a nearby uranium mine that operated throughout the 1960s.

P1: Climb 5.10 hands.

P2: Go up a difficult, thin hands splitter through a roof (5.12) to a roof. Punch in some small gear, then traverse left out the roof (5.11+), and then go up a left-facing corner to the belay.

P3: Climb the impressive overhanging finger and thin hands splitter. Save some #3 Camalots for a section before the anchors.

Descent: rappel the route with 2 ropes. Since P3 overhangs, take care not to get stranded out in space.

Protection 

Desert rack with extra 0.75s for the crux pitch.


Photos of The Black Mama Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: There are 2 unknown routes to the left (old Charli...
There are 2 unknown routes to the left (old Charli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P2.
Looking down P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: The pitch 2 roof traverse.
The pitch 2 roof traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping down pitch 2.
Rapping down pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux pitch.
The crux pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Black Mama.
The Black Mama.

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