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G. Tradisfaction Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
50 Sent T 
Biter, The T 
Bone Appetite S 
Chicken Little Complex T 
Don't Doubt the Dojo T 
Dust-In Bones T 
Raptor Ramp T 
Regular Standard Wiessner Route Direct Direct S 
Stockholm Syndrome  T 
Xiphoid Process T 

The Biter 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Dylan Oliver, Roderick Russell (Sept. 5, 2016)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on Oct 6, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Start of The Biter.

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

A great route pair with Don't Fear the Dojo, on the right. The FA was done with at least 5 necessary cams left either on the ground or back in the car leaving 3 pieces for the final 65 feet. Memorable to say the least.

Climb the easy corner with great stemming and small gear to a great stance below the roof. Surprisingly easy climbing through the fun roof crack leads to a stance in the corner. Continue up the easy corner system and take one final shake before leaving the corner for a crack system that gets steep and then steeper still. It's not over until the top! 2-bolt anchor.

Named after a sharp fingerlock that made both Dylan and Roderick's fingers go numb when they grabbed it.

Location 

Directly between Regular Standard Wiessner Route Direct Direct and Don't Doubt the Dojo.

Protection 

Gear: Medium sized cams, emphasis on fingers and a 3" cam for the crux.

On the FA: "Oh, dude you didn't bring the 3?"

Do yourself a favor and bring the #3.


Photos of The Biter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting the roof on the FA of The Biter (5.10d).
Exiting the roof on the FA of The Biter (5.10d).

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