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The Bilbo Buttresses

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandoned project TR 
Debbie Does Donuts T 
El Chapo S 
El Chivo S 
Sean Penn S 
Val De Mello S 
White Trash T 

The Bilbo Buttresses Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.09338, -116.15583 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,303
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Locker on Dec 4, 2003
Forecast:
Overnight

59°
Sunday

83° | 57°
Monday

82° | 58°
Tuesday

79° | 59°
Wednesday

82° | 58°
Thursday

79° | 54°
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Rappelling off anchors for Sean Penn

Description 

These are the small walls just east of Billboard Buttress. If facing Billboard Buttress, it is directly to the right. New bolted line El Chivo 5.8, 4 bolts with a 3 bolt anchor. Also White Trash 5.8, Val De Mello 5.10b and Debbie Does Donuts 5.6. A good one right out of the back of your car. Billboard Buttress is often crowded but I have found this set of climbs to be generally empty (Ask permission of course if campgroud is taken). Best climbed on weekdays!


Getting There 

From the Indian Cove entrance, drive into the main campground area (passing the group camping on right) until you see a fork in the road. Take the left, park at Billboard Buttress (by the recycling bins) immmediately on your left (Pixie Rock at the Fork on the right). Walk past Billboard Buttress into the campground right past it and BINGO!!! There ya be! Look left.........


Climbing Season



Weather station 6.3 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Bilbo Buttresses

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bilbo Buttresses:
El Chapo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
El Chivo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Sean Penn   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Val De Mello   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bilbo Buttresses

Featured Route For The Bilbo Buttresses
Rock Climbing Photo: Catherine on El Chivo - its surprisingly steep

El Chivo 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Bilbo Buttresses
This newish sport climb is located in the small cove directly behind (east of) Billboard buttress and 40' left of the route White Trash. Good protection with fun moves make this a worthwhile addition to the area - especially on those cold and windy days that can get your goat.A small cam (.5") can be placed before the first bolt and additional pro (2-2.5") is possible after the last bolt if desired. The climb has been done on toprope straight up from the first bolt at 5.10+ as well....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of The Bilbo Buttresses Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Bilbo Buttresses, Joshua Tree NP
The Bilbo Buttresses, Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: Closer view of the right side of Bilbo Buttresses
BETA PHOTO: Closer view of the right side of Bilbo Buttresses
Rock Climbing Photo: Bilbo Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
Bilbo Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.

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