The Bilbo Buttresses Rock Climbing
Rappelling off anchors for Sean Penn
These are the small walls just east of Billboard Buttress. If facing Billboard Buttress, it is directly to the right. New bolted line El Chivo
5.8, 4 bolts with a 3 bolt anchor. Also White Trash 5.8, Val De Mello 5.10b and Debbie Does Donuts 5.6. A good one right out of the back of your car. Billboard Buttress is often crowded but I have found this set of climbs to be generally empty (Ask permission of course if campgroud is taken). Best climbed on weekdays!
From the Indian Cove entrance, drive into the main campground area (passing the group camping on right) until you see a fork in the road. Take the left, park at Billboard Buttress (by the recycling bins) immmediately on your left (Pixie Rock at the Fork on the right). Walk past Billboard Buttress into the campground right past it and BINGO!!! There ya be! Look left.........
Weather station 6.3 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Bilbo Buttresses
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Bilbo Buttresses
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Bilbo Buttresses:
El Chapo 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
El Chivo 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Sean Penn 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For The Bilbo Buttresses
El Chivo 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c California
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : The Bilbo Buttresses
This newish sport climb is located in the small cove directly behind (east of) Billboard buttress and 40' left of the route White Trash. Good protection with fun moves make this a worthwhile addition to the area - especially on those cold and windy days that can get your goat.A small cam (.5") can be placed before the first bolt and additional pro (2-2.5") is possible after the last bolt if desired. The climb has been done on toprope straight up from the first bolt at 5.10+ as well....[more] Browse More Classics in California
The Bilbo Buttresses, Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Closer view of the right side of Bilbo Buttresses
Bilbo Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.