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The Biggest Lips in Rock 'n' Roll 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: to be determined
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: R Sather on Jun 20, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: This is the huge boulder mentioned in the approach...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This route is a thin hands flare though a roof. It is possibly hand size dependent. I found the crux getting to a ledge out left above the lip. I wasn't quite sure what to rate this crack, but it sure was fun! It is harder than Biggest Tits in my opinion, similar to Nat's Three Star Roof, but Nat's is easier, and easier than Beer Crack. All are rated V3.


I'm logging this problem in hopes to clarify the approach to TBTICM for others.

Park in the Box Canyon parking area, and walk toward the Old Easy formation. We found a faint trail off left of the main road through some aspens and headed up the slabs of the old easy formation trending right. Keep your eyes out for the large, 60 foot tall rock formation that is pictured. Once you have found this boulder, continue up the slabs left of the rock formation, and find a somewhat exposed foot traverse that will bring you around the back side of the pictured boulder. I'm sure there is more than one way to approach this formation, but this is what seemed most obvious to myself.

The Biggest Lips is an obvious crack system located to the left of TBTICM on the same rock formation. We actually mistook this crack system for Biggest Tits and walked right past it. Biggest Tits is in somewhat of a tunnel. I hope some more info helps! Get on it!


We happened to have a lot of pads the day we did this problem which helped. There is a "Tiger Trap" right underneath the crack, a pit of sorts. Basically there is a flaring gape under this problem, but it is protectable with enough pads or pure bravado and strength!

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