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The Big So-So 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: 2011 Bob Branscomb
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Sep 7, 2016

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Description 

Starts off steep with adult leadouts to a intermediate anchor below the bulge: 5.8.
Above the anchor, up to the bulge and perform a stout deadpoint to a good pocket, then work left along the bulge on thin face (crux), then up to anchor.
Alternatively, if you don't like the looks of the deadpoint, you can move right along the crack below the bulge onto the upper Banish Misfortune and finish out that way (10a). Recommend a couple of single length runners to minimize rope drag on this option.

Location 

This route is not in the book but is just next downhill from Banish Misfortune and next uphill from The Grand Adventure.

Protection 

bolts...12 should do.


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By Merrick Schaefer
From: Washington, DC
Aug 1, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

The grade for this route is way off. I cruised the 10c next to it without expending effort and was completely shut down by this route. I did the stated crux of the first deadpoint off the ledge pretty easily and then was stopped completely. It looks like a hold to the left broke off (there is a white scar on the rock right where you need a hold). I would suggest that someone verify this and then adjust the grade accordingly. I am guessing 11+ though I have been able to do the all the moves on all the 11d's I have gotten on recently and wasn't able to do the moves on this.

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