The Big Short
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
Tim Deroehn sends The Big Short
The Big Short is the most obvious, striking line on the tallest, steepest part of the Yellowjacket Boulder. The hardest moves are concentrated in the first 10 feet; however, the climbing on the upper wall remains relatively tough (mid 5.11) and is definitely heady. The Big Short is a tall problem; at Rumney, it probably would have been bolted.
Start in the scoop with your hands matched on a big sidepull/undercling. Make a move up to a pinch and figure out how to get your right hand in a high picket (crux). Surf out left to some cool crystally holds, and make deadpoint-style moves up the face until you reach a good ledge. Make sure to grab the left or center of the ledge, as the right side of the ledge devolves into a dubiously thin flake. The moves from the jug to the lip are just hard enough to keep your attention given the height.
In the fall of 2015, Tim Kemple Jr. added a sit start that clocks in at V8 or 9.
Multiple pads and spotters
Just past the crux, rolling to the cool crystal ho...
Getting ready to throw to the jug
By Sean Kurnas
May 25, 2015
This climb is impressive. I thought I would be excited to climb it, but had a change of heart standing underneath with a tiny pad (and tiny spotter).
Has anyone done a sit to this boulder? I figured out beta starting low in the corner, RH on a jug sidepull and LH on a cool pinch on the roof. I didn't succeed in sticking the move into the actual start of Big Short but I was close enough to know it's possible... well, possible for someone.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Jan 11, 2017
This last fall, Tim Kemple Jr. added a sit start to The Big Short (The Bigger Short?) at V8 or 9.