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Big Shoe Dance, The T 
Move, The T 

The Big Shoe Dance 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Matt Wenger on Mar 19, 2017

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Description 

Crux is the beautiful 2nd pitch dihedral. Sustained old school 5.9+, but the pitch is short.

P1: Climb the easy slab up to a huge ledge. Build a gear anchor in a large horizontal crack underneath the obvious right facing dihedral. 100'. (5.7, Pee Wee's Big Adventure in Rock Climbs of SW MT guide book)

P2: Enjoy the awesome, but stout, right facing dihedral hand crack system. Gear anchor (small stuff) in the weakness just above the dihedral. 50'. (5.9+)

Descent: Scramble off left (a few exposed but easy moves), or continue climbing up higher to the very top, and then scramble down and left. This walk off honestly sucks, and this climb could benefit from some rappel rings to get down.

Location 

Hike up and left of The Move into an alcove with a big dark grey slab on your left. This is the start of your route.

Protection 

Light rack up to 3". 2nd pitch takes everything from small fingers to fat hands. I believe I used a BD 1, 2, and 3 for the P1 anchor, and smaller stuff for P2 anchor.


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