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The Big Pucker 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Tom Davis, David Rubine 1988
Page Views: 1,666
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Almost, but not quite... :)

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This route is the second bolted line right of Portent, and is easily indetified because the first bolt is about 35 feet off the ground.

Climb up to a 5.10a angled crack that leads to the first bolt using some not so tough, but burly jams. After the first bolt a secondary piece of protection should be placed in the crack before ascending a small 5.10c/d roof move that moves to hidden holds. Missing this move is NOT fun (my shoulder still hurts, I scared the hell out of some hikers when Jared let me down bleeding profusely) due to the slab that sits below this move.

After the first roof, climb up past two more bolts and a balancy 5.10c section that's easier if you're tall. Once over the top the climb is quite runout, but the climbing is only 5.2 as you move up and right to the top anchors, which are shared with The Wet Kiss (5.9).


Mixed Route. 3 bolts, with supplimental 1,5-3" pro and some slings needed in two sections.

Photos of The Big Pucker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Big Pucker from down below.  The first bolt is...
BETA PHOTO: The Big Pucker from down below. The first bolt is...

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By bmdhacks
Sep 24, 2013

This shares an anchor with, and is a nice toprope after leading the easier 5.9 The Wet Kiss.
By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Feb 1, 2015

Falling on the bolt below the mantle move would definitely blow, but if you place gear in the horizontal under the roof the fall would be a little less crappy, but still require pretty agile body positioning on the way down.

The move itself is highly beta intensive.. Knowing where the holds are drops the difficulty significantly.
By Kyle Queener
From: Bishop, California
May 3, 2015

If you place protection in the cracks, like you should, you won't find the route deserving of a R rating. A good rack is 1/2'" to 3" or purple to blue C4 camalots.

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