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Big Nasty, The T 
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The Big Nasty 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A4

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 550'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A4 [details]
FA: Duane Raleigh and Walt Shipley (RIP)
Page Views: 1,621
Submitted By: Jeremy Aslaksen on Nov 24, 2009

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Route Info: 

Pitch 1 - Once at the base of the tower you have a couple options. You can start directly up the "toe" further downhill (we did and added a new 1/2 pitch to the first)or you can start around to the right (uphill and looks WAY more dicey...muddy 5.9 free climbing with minimal pro) towards the original route. Either way gets you to a ledge with the BIG horn anchor.

Pitch 2 - Climb up a little ways and get to a saddle. Traverse left to the seam that splits the tower. Belay at the slung flake and single new bolt.

Pitch 3 - Head right off the belay on #1 Peckers till you reach the ladder. Clip the bolts (way reachy) and then some A4 to a belay under the caprock.

Pitch 4 - Climb up to a big ledge.

Pitch 5 - Scramble to the top


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