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The Big Easy 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Geoff Georges. May 1, 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 568
Submitted By: geoff georges on Jun 19, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: I believe the route goes up the left hand side of ...


I explored this chimney with a steep fingers to hands start finding it extremely dirty. This may be an old route, but with the amount of loose rock, dead trees, peeling flakes, bones, guano, plants and dirt I think it was unclimbed. I trundled a 2x2x3' rock out of the chimney, scrubbed and scraped lichen, peeling flakes and dug out the dirt. I think it is really fun, well the climb, not the cleaning.
Begin with overhanging finger locks to good hand jam. Keeps getting wider, fists, OW, few more hand jams, small crack on the right, mantle up on big ledge. You can either continue up chimney (5.6) or finish out on finger- hand crack on the left, maybe 10a.


just right of Sex Dysfunction 12a with bolts and left of Frigidity/ Testosterone.


Standard rack to 4". Gear anchor at top- many options, then walk north to chain rap at Life without Sex-short down climb with 60m rap, or a 70m rope reaches the ground.

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By dave bingham
Oct 15, 2015

George - this sounded like a good adventure. Is this route something others will want to do?
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Oct 27, 2015

Hi Dave, working on a new addition? I think it is quite good. Great finger locks to hand jams, the OW is easy, chimney even easier, the left side fingers top out is more in keeping with the 5.10 grade. Looks like no one has tried it, at least not MP users.
By rileyrice
From: Myrtle Creek OR
Jun 9, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Thought this was pretty cool. Beginning moves getting into the OW felt harder than the other 10a/b climbs we did at COR, but still super fun. The OW is fairly friendly -- reach deep for good jams.

Get on it!
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 9, 2016

rileyrice, I think you made the 2nd ascent, glad you liked it, did you do the chimney to top, or split left for finger crack?

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