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The Best Route In Minnesota 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Skinner & MIke Tupper
Page Views: 5,749
Submitted By: Mike on Nov 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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The Best Route in Minnesota

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


A great route on a pinnacle inside a cave.


Located inside the cave that is on the backside of the Thaiwand. You can approach it from Phra Nang Beach or by going through the cave at the Thaiwand all the way to the other side.


Bolts. Lots of them.

Photos of The Best Route In Minnesota Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Do you even overhang?
Do you even overhang?
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Holley on BRM!!
Mike Holley on BRM!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Best Route In Minnesota
BETA PHOTO: Best Route In Minnesota
Rock Climbing Photo: really a great route, one of the best.
really a great route, one of the best.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cliff half way up this amazing line.
Cliff half way up this amazing line.
Rock Climbing Photo: view from the base
view from the base
Rock Climbing Photo: Annaliese at the base of Best Route in Minnesota.
BETA PHOTO: Annaliese at the base of Best Route in Minnesota.

Comments on The Best Route In Minnesota Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Nov 15, 2007

Actually this is a Skinner route. Brady's is next door: the Half-Pipe Dream. Current status of fixed pro is unknown to me.
By RollGlobal
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 8, 2010

Much of Escher wall is still in a state of disrepair when it comes to fixed pro. The Best Route in Minnesota, however, has been rebolted with titanium and red glue (currently considered the best pro in Krabi). I just climbed it yesterday. Such a great climb.
By jasoncm
May 8, 2013

No Titanium on this route. Just Fixe stainless rings that look like they have seen better days. Really cool route though, deserves re-bolting. Easy for the grade.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Feb 14, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Onsight, so must be soft. This route is equipped with 316 stainless steel and Hilte 500 glue (the good kind). Although not ideal, the bolts looked far better than routes with white glue. But I guess it's not about what you can see...
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Mar 26, 2014

Amazing Route! A little spaced out delicate face climbing for the first section, stellar rest half way up and then the outstanding double arete to the top! This bad boy is long, a enduro pitch by Tonsai/Railey standards. Safely bolted, stays cool in the cave all day and is totally not only the "Best Route in Minnesota" but by far one of the best routes in the Tonsai/Railey area! Worth the trek from Tonsai beach. A MUST DO!!!
By Lindsey Robinson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 21, 2014

Great, long route. I think the crux was getting to the 2nd bolt--potential for both leader and follower to deck. So the 6c rating felt appropriate for the bottom portion, the rest gets easier while still being loads of fun. Great route, highly recommended! The bolts looked good to me-- the slings at the anchor looked like people were going for quantity over quality...but it held...
By mikehilbert
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 30, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Given it's four star rating, it's not surprising that this route gets a lot of action. I loved the view and the exposure. What I wasn't so much a fan of was the polishing of every single hold. Maybe this is a function of the volume on the route, maybe it's a natural thing, maybe it has something to do with climbing it in the rainy season, but there seems to be a thick film of slime on all the holds, particularly those up high, making this more difficult than it otherwise needed to be. I understand that polishing comes with the territory in Tonsai/Railay but in this case, I felt it substantially took away from the quality of the climb. Certainly a unique and quality climb, but...beware the slime.
By K Blase
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 15, 2017

crazy cool route, but covered in slime and super polished. i climbed it in the rainy season, so not sure if it's always like that, but the slime made it much less enjoyable.

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