REI Community
Choss Garden
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beata S 
Benefactor, The S 
Black Dynamite S 
Bridge to Total Freedom, The S 
Daisy S 
Depth of Field S 
Garden Party S 
Gardener, The S 
Mellow Gold S 
Nettle S 
Pitbulls on Crack S 
Touchy Subject S 
Touchy Tuco S 
Tuco's Nettle S 
Up in Arms S 

The Benefactor 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 1,509
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Classic name, great line, quality climbing (so what if it's short). The Benefactor takes an attractive, brown patina-looking swath up the center of the Garden. More pumpy than technical or powerful, this route might be considered a soft 12b by some, but I'll stick with the rating given by the first ascensionists. Lowering off the anchors leaves the climber a good 15 feet out from the base of the route. This may be one of the best 12b's in BCC, better than Savage Dance, which gets 3 out of 3 stars in the Ruckmans' 1998 guide.


Between Mellow Gold to the left and Up in Arms to the right. Look for a belay bolt, with two bolts above leading to an undercling flake, followed by the patina-like section above.


Draws. Descent is from a two-bolt anchor.

Comments on The Benefactor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
May 8, 2012

My only complaint is the bad belay stance at the base of this one. All the other routes have nice flat stances with a belay bolt.
By Tim G.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 20, 2014

Great climb. Pretty consistent, hard climbing from the beginning. You get a slight rest at a good undercling, but you are barely off the ground at that point.

I agree about the belay stance. Really steep on slick quartzite. It would be nice to have a belayers bolt right at the bottom to go in direct with. I felt like I might fall and pull my climber down with me at any moment. Next time I might bring some trad gear to setup a belay anchor.

Also chains at the top would be nice. The cord that was up there looked like it had been baking in the sun all season. Someone left a draw on the last bolt which I also left to give me a little more peace of mind while lowering.
By skiandclimb
Sep 23, 2015

There is now a belay bolt to protect the belayer on the exposed ledge.
There is also a new 2 bolt anchor at the top instead of the shitty old slings around the tree. Not sure why this route never had its own anchor???
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Feb 5, 2016

Thanks for the upgrades. Definitely needed. Great route.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About