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The Belay Brothers Bounce Back 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Josh Pollock and Jake Waples, June 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,292
Submitted By: Josh on Mar 28, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The start of the route.

Description 

The Belay Brothers Bounce Back is a fine mixed line. Start in a crack/flake system right of the pine tree growing against the wall. This takes good gear through the lower portion and then transitions to bolts only on the slabby, upper face. Begin with an undercling/lieback on the prominent flake (place a green Camalot here right away or even before you start). Fire out right and stand up to lieback the flake further up (crux). Work up the flake/crack system, which stays steep. Just before the crack ends, it is wide hands/fists. The transition out of the crack and up to the first bolt is tricky, so stay awake. The upper face eases considerably as you approach the anchors.

Location 

This is just to the right of the tree growing against the Middle Wall. Start on a prominent, right-facing flake.

Protection 

Gear + 4 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. Camalots from #0.5 to #3 are useful (and a #4 in the wide upper part of the crack could make things easier), but alternative placements, including small cams and nuts, exist for just about every one of the larger placements.


Photos of The Belay Brothers Bounce Back Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On the gear portion near the bottom.
On the gear portion near the bottom.
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the start.
Near the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: 12 year old Katie K. all smiles after leading the ...
12 year old Katie K. all smiles after leading the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading through the transition from gear to bolts.
Leading through the transition from gear to bolts.

Comments on The Belay Brothers Bounce Back Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 29, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The crux is definitely near the bottom, as described in the description. The route is fun, and it is a good warm up before doing harder routes in the area.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 13, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I led this recently and only placed cams. I used two #2 Camalots and a #4 as well. I also placed the #0.75 Camalot and a #2 Friend. I did not use any nuts. It is a little tricky getting above the last gear placement to the first bolt.
By Alex Mason
From: Denver
Sep 17, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Be careful on the start! Fun route.
By Noah Yetter
From: Lakewood, CO
May 7, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The start is height-dependent and very strenuous. You can indeed pre-place a green Camalot, but placing a second piece while laybacking the flake is super hard. If you have a medium-sized hex (like a red or gold Torque Nut maybe) you can slot it around the right edge of the flake without having to visually check the placement, as it will sit in a recess from which it could not possibly come out. The largest passive I had was a #11 Wallnut and this was too small. Once you are above the flake, the remainder of the route is quite easy.

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