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The Beckey Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Jack Roberts, Dave Black. September 1973.
Season: Summer, Fall
Page Views: 281
Submitted By: JimmyB on Jul 23, 2014

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Topo for the Beckey Route

Description 

The ubiquitous Beckey Route! This is a plum line on crumbly rock. While aesthetically pleasing, this route is a tough one to recommend. The name “West Face” is a bit of a misnomer. The route is actually on the North Face of the peak.
P1: Climb up thru the wide roof, then continue up the right facing corner. 5.10
P2: Climb up loose flakes in a right facing corner. Continue up vertical kitty litter to a cool, right facing lie-back flake. Belay in crack above the flake. 5.10
P3: Move right off the belay across slabby face. There are two options. Move up the right facing corner and then up and right across the featured face to the 5.7 crack OR place gear high in the right facing corner, down climb and then move right into the 5.7 corner.
P4: This pitch is pretty good. Move up and left across corners and thru the “Slot of Doom”
P5: Follow the 5.6 splitter to the big ledge.
P6: From the big ledge, there are three options to the top.
Option A: Climb the easy crack straight up from the left side of the ledge. 5.8
Option B: Start up the easy crack on the left side of the ledge, then move right up a splitter finger crack. 5.10-
Option C: From the right side of the ledge, climb up broken cracks, then traverse left up the splitter and then right up the finger crack to the top. This is the most sustained option. Manage rope drag. 5.10-

Location 

The Beckey Route climbs the plumb line up the center of the North Face. It is right of the Dihedral Route and left of the Big Scoop Roof.

Protection 

Single rack to #4 Camalot. Doubles .3-#2 Camalot


Photos of The Beckey Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruiser 5.6 on the Beckey Route up to Big Ledge
Cruiser 5.6 on the Beckey Route up to Big Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: The top of pitch 2 of the Beckey Route
The top of pitch 2 of the Beckey Route
Rock Climbing Photo: The engaging third pitch of the Beckey Route.
The engaging third pitch of the Beckey Route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of the Beckey Route.
Pitch 1 of the Beckey Route.

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