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The Beast 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Pete Zoller, Phillip Benningfield
Page Views: 8,772
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Sep 13, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Minko on The Beast.


This venerable classic is many people's first 13a at Rifle, despite the fact that climbers have been bickering over the 12d vs 13a grade for the last decade. Were it in Europe it would be 7c+, which is 13a, so give yourself a pat on the back if you redpoint this slippery beast.

This route is just right of Never Believe and climbs directly up the center of the blue-grey panel of water-sculpted rock in the middle of the Wasteland. It can be recognized by a high first bolt (generally stick clipped) and a series of perfect two and three finger pockets at the opening sequence. Constant traffic on this route has turned the footholds black -- almost to the point that you feel like you're smearing on marble. Nevertheless, the climbing on this line is great -- sustained, powerful and aesthetic.

A genuine 13a advent, "The Beast with Two Backs," continues past the anchors out the big roof via long moves to good holds. Bring four or five more draws for this, and maybe a toothbrush, as it sees little traffic.


Six quickdraws plus two for the anchor.

Photos of The Beast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerad at the top part of The Beast
Jerad at the top part of The Beast
Rock Climbing Photo: olivier manou on "the beast"
olivier manou on "the beast"
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerad at the top part of The Beast.
Jerad at the top part of The Beast.

Comments on The Beast Add Comment
Show which comments
By andrew yake
Jul 28, 2004

This is a full-on 5.13a.
By Kipp Schorr
Sep 22, 2004
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This thing is sick ! Fav route at Rifle so far. Solid 13a as well. Get on it. Quick link at the second crux (5th bolt) should be replaced soon! I'll get in on the next trip back if not done yet. Cheers.
By Andrew Bisharat
May 14, 2007

I think the first anchors should come out, and the route should finish at the "Beast With Two Backs" anchors.
By Joe Collins
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Leave the anchor as is. The Beast has existed for far too long as a route that ends at the roof to change things now.
By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Dec 12, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

If the first anchors ever come out, the top anchors should be moved. If you clip bolts above the lip, your rope burns severely on the lip. When I first got up there, there were no draws on the bolts, there are draws on there now, but beware. Two or three burns clipping the anchor I can almost gurantee will ruin your rope.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 29, 2010

All of the 3/8" x 2-1/4" hardware (8 bolts total) were replaced on this route and fat steel lowering biners were added during the Rifle Cleanup 2010. Hardware courtesy of the ASCA.
By P. Colin McGraw
May 28, 2011

Of note is that the beginning is arguably harder than the original ascent, since a big undercling broke off (while someone hung from hooks trying to reinforce it with glue).
By Ken Cangi
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Mar 6, 2017
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I agree with Joe. Moving the anchors up would also negate every ascent of the original line. Leave them as is.

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