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The Beanstalk Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Amy Colburn, Mark Sprague - July 21/2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,389
Submitted By: M Sprague on Jul 21, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: One more day of scrubbing out, pop the anchor in a...

Description 

A 75 foot fingers to hands crack running straight up the wall. - Start just to the left, off a nice flat starting stone and head up to a single bolt. Layback up until you can get a nice flat edge right of the crack and begin plugging gear. The crack gradually widens to great hand jamming, ending at a good horizontal jug for clipping the anchor. Conservatively two and a half stars in my book.

Location 

This is up on the Beanstalk Wall, the second tier of cliff to the left of the big green gully, above the Pre-Marital Wall. To get to it continue left a minute past the prominent arete of BigFoot to get to the basalt scree fan from the gully. Angle up left across the mouth of the gully (not continuing up it) to find a path that continues leading up and left above the Premarital Wall. In a few minutes the path brings you up to the middle of the Beanstalk Wall, directly below a 2 pitch 'Y' crack (Squeeze Box). Head left maybe 80 feet and you will see the obvious straight up crack with a single bolt at the start.

Protection 

med nuts (a few off-sets are nice), a set of cams to #3, doubles of the .75 to 2. If you have off-set cams in those sizes bring them along for the short flared section, but they are not critical. Double fat glue-in eyebolt anchor. Please rap off them if there are no rings or biners. Tape for the back of your hands if you want to keep them pretty.


Photos of The Beanstalk Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the Beanstalk Crack
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the Beanstalk Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the incredible Beanstalk crack
Climbing the incredible Beanstalk crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Snap of Amy at the top after her FA
BETA PHOTO: Snap of Amy at the top after her FA

Comments on The Beanstalk Crack Add Comment
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By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Aug 4, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

One of the best cracks at the grade I've ever done.
By Rob Albert
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree Tom. Mark is modest about it, but it is an amazing climb.
By mikeinvt
Aug 21, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Agreed. Better than any of the 5.9 cracks at Cathedral which is saying a lot. Glad I was advised to tape up though. Thanks to Mark and co. for all the hard work you've put into this place.
By Emmett Lyman
From: Somerville, MA
Oct 17, 2016

Very nice climb. Multiple and varied cruxes throughout with thoughtful movement.

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