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The Beak
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 7
votes
Routes in Mary's Bust - left buttress
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Beak, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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College Fund T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Devil's Backbone, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Quartz Groove T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Run Out Of Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Sparky's Cooler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sympathy for the Devil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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That's What The Rope Is For T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Bernard Gillett and Allen Simons |
| Page Views: | 1,050 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Oct 8, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is a good route with good crux pitch: a thin crack through a headwall. Allen Simons toproped this crack some years ago as a variation to Sparky's Cooler. Bernard Gillett and Simons created an independent line up the wall that runs parallel and right of Sparky's Cooler, aiming for the headwall crack.
Go around the left side of the main wall and up the gully on the west. Pass about a half-dozen large pines on your way to the high point along the base of the left buttress at Mary's Bust. Rack up near the highest pine tree, and then scramble up and right for 20 feet (4th Class) to a ledge system. Start here near a beak-shaped flake pointing right 15 feet overhead above 2 bolts. The bolt above the left side of the belay ledge is the beginning of the direct start to Sparky's Cooler.
Pitch 1: climb steep rock to the 2nd bolt, and then reach the beak. Move up and left through a bulge (reachy 10-). Climb up and right to a stance with chains, 10-, 85', 10 bolts.
Pitch 2: go up and right through two bulges (8, bolts), and then cruise past 3 more bolts. The pitch finishes with a ladder of buckets to a big ledge at the base of the headwall and a 2 bolt belay with chains, 5.8, 80', 5 bolts.
Pitch 3: enjoy the slightly overhanging headwall crack with lots of cruxes to a grassy ledge with a bolted belay, 11-, 45', 5 bolts & gear.
Pitch 4: this is the last pitch of Sparky's Cooler. Climb 5.6 rock with a bolt above the belay, then run it out for 60 feet of 5.3 (R)to a ledge (bolts and chains on the left). Allen added 4 bolt to this pitch as it is useful as an approach to Moonlight Rock.
Note: the headwall crack lies beneath a water sluice (the last pitch) that drains the terrain above, so it can be wet.
This route is a logical approach to Moonlight Rock; walk left on the big ledge at the top.
Location
It ascends the left buttress at Mary's Bust, beginning from the high point along the base, next to a tree. It is left of The Devil's Backbone (the approach to each differs only in the final 75 yards to the base) and right of Sparky's Cooler. See the topo on main Mary's Bust page.
Do 4 raps (80', 45', 85', 100'). Or, walk left on the ledge at the top toward Moonlight Rock, and scramble down between this rock and the left massif to the west.
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